LY. 1908 God's Country- -The Desert Voi. xxix. No. i

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The Nation Back of Us, The World in Front

Out West

A Magazine of

The Old Pacific and the New

(Formerly THE LAND OF SUNSHINE)

EDITED BY

Chias. F^. LTammis

AND

Chiarles Amadon Nloody

STAFF — David Starr Jordan, Joaquin Miller, Theodore H. Hlttell, Mary Hallock Foote, Margaret Collier Graham, Charles Warren Stoddard, Grace EUery Chan- ning, Ina Coolbrith, William Keith, Dr. Washington Matthews, Geo. Parker Wlnship, Frederick Webb Hodge, Charles F. Holder, Edwin Markham, Geo. Hamlin Fitch, Chas. Howard Shinn, Wm. E. Smythe, T. S. Van Dyke, Chas. A. Keeler, Louise M. Keeler, A. F. Harmer, L. May- nard Dixon, Charlotte Perkins Stetson Gilman, Constance Goddard DuBois, Batterman Lindsay, Charles Dwight Wlllard, Elizabeth and Joseph Grinnell, Fred- erick Starr, Sharlot M. Hall, Ella Higginson, Mary Austin.

Volume XXIX July to December, 1908

Out West Magazine Company LOS ANUBLES, CAL.

OUT WEST

INDEX TO VOLUME XXIX

Page

Above the Clouds, illustrated, Joseph N. Patterson 325

Admission Day Address, John F. Davis 308

Apache Treatment of White Captives, Sharlot M. Hall 216

Archaeological Institute of America — The Southwest Society 318

Arizona Cupid, An (story), Edmund Vance Cooke 60

Artists' Paradise, The, illustrated, Chas. F. Lummis 173, 241

Aunt Barbara Goes Back East (story), Frances Margaret Fox 444

Before Dawn in Chinatown, illustrated, Charlton Lawrence Edholm 387

'Bobolink Field, My (poehi), Laura Mackay 148

Bungalow Garden in Southern California, Hannah Burton 149

Cahfornia Songs, Some Early, illustrated, W. J. Handy 430 ,

Call of the Desert, The (poem), Mabel Ann Smith 51

Captivity With the Apache Indians, and Later Life, of OHve A. Oatman,

Sharlot M. Hall 216

Caves, Exploring the Nakimu, illustrated, James Cooke Mills 349

Chinatown Before Dawn, illustrated, Charlton Lawrence Edholm 387

Clouds, Above the, illustrated, Joseph N. Patterson 325

Crab Catchers of the Pacific Coast, The, illustrated, Bonnycastle Dale... 344

Desert, The — God's Country, illustrated, Sharlot M. Hall 3

Desert-Hungry (poem), Lucy J. White 207

Enchanted Burro, The (story), Chas F. Lummis 275

Eucalyptus Blossoms (poem), Margaret Adelaide Wilson 152

Exploring the Nakimu Caves, illustrated, James Cooke Mills 349

Felipe's Sugaring-Oflf (story), Chas. F. Lummis 471

Fire, Halemaumau, The House of, illustrated, D. S. Richardson 418

Flag, A Historic, illustrated, W. J. Handy 123

Forest Service, The United States, illustrated, Will C. Barnes 89

'Forty-Niners, In the Land of the, illustrated, Sharlot M. Hall 397

Garden, A Southern California, Hannah Burton 149

God's Country — The Desert, illustrated, Sharlot M. Hall 3

Growth and Development of a Southern California Seaport, illustrated,

specially contributed 159

Gypsy, A (poem) , Laura Mackay 370

Halemaumau, The House of Fire, illustrated, D. S. Richardson 418

Hash Wrastler, The (poem), Sharlot M. Hall 140

Historic Flag, A, illustrated, W. J. Handy 123

Hour of Idleness, An (poem), Marion Cummings Stanley 193

Idyl of Bugville, An (story), Charlton Lawrence Edholm 284

Improving the Conditions of the Indians 393

In Don Antonio's Garden (story), Gertrude B. Millard 463

In the Land of the 'Forty-Niners, illustrated, Sharlot M. Hall 397

In Tune (poem) , Bertha McE. Knipe 39

Inferential Promise, An (story), Kate Craven Turner 371

Kid, The (story), J. Albert Mallory 208

Little House of Mary, The (poem), Sharlot M. Hall ' 274

Logan Berries and Their Originator, illustrated, Virginia Garland 270

Lotus (poem) , Martha H. Boles 2-jz

Miss Drury — Irish Agent (story), Raymond A. McConnell 301

Mountain Atmosphere and Scenery, illustrated, Joseph N. Patterson .... 325 Mystery of Miranda, The (story), Gertrude Dix 228

^^\ ^^

Page

Nakimu Caves, Exploring the, illustrated, James Cooke Mills 349

New Portal to Paradise, A, illustrated, Willoughby Rodman 41

Oatman, Olive A.— Her Captivity with the Apache Indians, and Her

Later Life, Sharlot M. Hall 216

Pablo's Deer Hunt, a Pueblo Fairy Tale, Chas. F. Lummis 379

Pacific Coast, Crab Catchers of the, illustrated, Bonnycastle Dale 344

Paradise, A New Portal to, illustrated, Willoughby Rodman 41

Paradise, The Artists', illustrated, Chas. F. Lummis I73. 241

Petra del Campo (story), Wallace Gillpatrick 142

Plant Life in the Desert, illustrated, Sharlot M. Hall 3

Red Parasol in Mexico, A, illustrated, serial, J. Torrey Connor

28, III, 198, 259, 337

Redondo Beach, California, illustrated, specially contributed I59

Sanger, California, illustrated, W. M. Barr 81

School Days and Other Days on the Hassayampa, serial, Laura Tilden

Kent 438

Sequoya League, The 393

Sidewinder, The (poem), Chas. F. Lummis 127

Small Things in the Yosemite, Joseph Anthony 53

Some Early California Songs, illustrated, W. J. Handy 430

Songs, Some Early California, illustrated, W. J. Handy 430

Southern California Garden, A, Hannah Burton I49

Southwest An Artist's Paradise, The, illustrated, Chas. F. Lummis. .. 173, 241

Southwest Society, The — Archaeological Institute of America 318

Sphinx of the Hills, The (story), R. C. Pitzer 294

Spring in the Desert (poem), Sharlot M. Hall 52

Tisare (story) , Natalie Manson Dew IS3

"Too Much Muchachos !" (story), Ernestine Winchell 362

Torch, The (story), Eugene Manlove Rhodes 128

Touch of Nature, A (story), Eugene Manlove Rhodes 70

Trump, The (story), Melcena Burns Denny 449

Under the Medusa Cactus (story), Mary H. Coates 235

U. S. Forest Service, The, illustrated, Will C. Barnes 89

White Soul, A (story), Nettie Mason 459

Yosemite, a Journey Through the, illustrated, Willoughby Rodman 41

Yosemite, Small Things in the, Joseph Anthony 53

176957

Copyright 1908

Out West Magazine Company

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CIIAS. F. LUMMIS' \ ^..^

CHARLES AMADON MOODY \ ^^^^^rs SHARLOT M. HALL, Associate Editor

AMONG THE STOCKHOLDERS AND CONTRIBUTORS ARE:

DAVID STARR JORDAN

President of Stanford University FREDERICK STARR

Chicago University THEODORE M. HITTELL

The Historian of California MARY HALLOCK FOOTE

Author of "The Led-Horse Claim," etc. MARGARET COLLIER GRAHAM

Author of "Stories of the Foothills" GRACE ELLERY CHANNING

Author of "The Sister of a Saint," etc. ELLA HIGGINSON

Author of "A Forest Orchid," etc. CHARLES WARREN STODDARD

The Poet of the South Seas INA COOLBRITH

Author of "Song from the Golden Gate," etc. EDWIN MARKHAM

Author of "The Man with the Hoe" JOAQUIN MILLER

The Poet of the Sierras BATTERMAN LINDSAY CHARLES FREDERICK HOLDER

Author of "The Life of Agassiz," etc. CHAS. DWIGHT WILLARD CONSTANCE GODDARD DU BOIS

Author of "The Shield of the Fleur de Lis"

WILLIAM E. SMYTHE

Author of "The Conquest of Arid America."

etc DR. WASHINGTON MATTHEWS

Ex-Pres. American Folk-Lore Society WILLIAM KEITH

The Greatest Western Painter CHARLES A. KEELER LOUISE M. KEELER GEO. PARKER WINSHIP

The Historian of Coronado's Marches FREDERICK WEBB HODGE

of the Smithsonian Institution, Washington GEO. HAMLIN FITCH

Literary Editor S. F, Chronicle ALEX. F. HARMER

CHARLOTTE PERKINS STETSON OILMAN Author of "In This Our World" CHAS. HOWARD SHINN

Author of "The Story of the Mine," etc. T. S. VAK DYKE

Author of "Rod and Gun in California," etc. MARY AUSTIN

Author of "The Land of Little Rain" L MAYNARD DIXON ELIZABETH AND JOSEPH GRINNELL

Authors of "Our Feathered Friend"''

Contents— Jxily. 1908

God's Country — The Desert, illustrated, by Sharlot M. Hall 3

A Red Parasol in Mexico, illustrated serial, by J. Torrey Connor 28

In Tune, poem, by Bertha McE. Knipe .....' , 39

A New Portal to Paradise, illustrated, by Willoughby Rodman 41

The Call of the Desert, poem, by Mabel Ann Smith "51

Spring in the Desert, poem, by Sharlot M. Hall 52

Small Things in the Yosemite, by Joseph Anthony 53

An Arizona Ctipid, story, by Edmund Vance Cooke 61

A Touch of Nature, story, by Eugene Manlove Rhodes 71

Sanger, California, illustrated, by W. M. Barr 81

Copyright 1908. Entered at the Los Angeles PostoflBce as second-class matter. (See Publishers' Page<

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"Coxcomb Cactus"

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v/

'MB NATION BACK Of US TMC WORLD IN FRONT

mm-M iT^? »

OufWcST

T

Vol. XXIX, No. 1 JULY. I908

* GODS COUNTRY— the: DESERT

Hy SHARLOT M. HALL.

HE big dull-copper disk of the full moon swung up over the dark-lined mountains — true des- ert ranges, sharp peaks clean cut as horns, knife-like hog-backs, wave- edged ridges blue-black against a fathomless purple sky beset with stars. In front, lesser peaks and ridges swam up out of the wide up- lifted plain like strong islands out of a sea of sand. Islands they were — the scarred and time-worn summits of great ranges lost deep under the wash of centuries. Down the wide, low caiions the idling night-wind drifted the perfume of blossoming mesquite and cat-claw and strange, wild shrubs and unnamed herb and flower in engulfing waves of fra- grance.

Two riders stopped on a hill-top, and looked up at the moon and the sharp-jawed peaks and out across the dusky open where the sand-washes gleamed like rivers of silver in the moonlight, thread- ing in and out among the dark shadow-patches of mesquite and cactus.

One was an old man, with forty years of the desert mapped in his face ; it was as seamed and lined and brown as the hills would be under tomorrow's sun. "God's Country !" he said — to himself rather than to the silent rider by his side. "God's Country! We used to call the States that. We weighed every ounce of gold dust in our buckskin bags on Sunday morning — because when it weighed so

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GOD'S COUNTRY— THE DESERT. 5

much we were going back to God's Country ; going where the ground grew things to eat and nobody knew how to drink out of a canteen.

"Why, this is God's Country — the cleanest, freest, bravest land under the stars — if you know how to take it. I can find food and shelter in any corner of it; yes, and physic too, if it comes to that. They say Nature has put everything a man needs, sick or well, on any square mile of earth — if he has sense enough to find it."

The old man was a type — "desert mad," held fast in the spell of wide, clean, sun-filled skies unblurred by any smoke but the bitter- sweet trail of a camp-fire of dry yucca leaves heaped over an armful of pungent grease-wood; a wide, clean, sun-white land where the

Palo Verdr and Creosote at Home

only boundary marks were the monuments some prospector had set across a ledge — or the lesser heap of stones against the cross of rough mesquite where some desert wanderer had staked his last claim.

The desert is like a Sargasso sea, as full of strange human drift as that part of the ocean is said to be of derelict ships. Happy derelicts, many a one of these the desert has claimed ; drifting through a golden haze which clothes every barren ledge and siin-burned hill- side with the glamour of hope. Beyond, beyond, just beyond, the sand glistens yellow in the sun and every broken boulder is flecked with "values."

Some of them have not been outside the desert in half a lifetime; a few times a year they straggle in to the little stores that mark the

6 OUT WEST

last in-reach of civilization, exchange a meagre hoard of gold-dust or blackened, pocket-worn silver coins for beans, flour, coffee, a bit of bacon, whiskey always ; boast guardedly over chunks of gold- specked ore, and fade back into the mirage behind tne lean burros.

They bring strange scraps of desert myth and lore, gleaned per- haps from wandering Mexicans, or from the Indians that drift in and out as the cactus-fruit and mesquite-beans ripen, or the liner basket materials grow scarce elsewhere — wisdom of herb and plant, odd "cures" as good probably as anything in the regular pharma- copoeia, and grim superstitions of haunted water-holes, outfits of packed burros that vanish into clean air as the traveller comes near, and the red camel with pouches of gold and a skeleton rider still

A TvpicAL Desert of the Foothills

Tree "opuntias," grape cactus, giant cactus and creosote bush

lashed to his back, whom many a man has sighted and no man could capture.

Ching Lee, the old Chinaman who gardens patiently in a tiny oasis and hauls his vegetables away to market at the mining-camps across the desert, had rheumatism. He crawled painfully along his neat rows of beans and sweet potatoes, and burned many prayer- sticks before his worn and faded rice-paper Joss without relief. Some passing prospector stopped to fill his canteens, and told the old man to boil a rattlesnake and bathe his limbs in the broth. The prescription was followed — and Ching is as well as any man.

The rattlesnake has a part all his own in the desert practice of healing. Rattlesnake oil cures rheumatism and the stiffened joints

GOD'S COUNTRY— THE DESERT.

a man gets working down in a wet mine ; the oil rubbed in the ears cures deafness ; and a rattlesnake skin, tanned soft and supple as chamois and worn around the waist, will keep a man well on the hardest trip — but the dust from the rattles will cause blindness which nothing will cure.

There is a plant which the rattlesnake fears — he will not crawl across it, and, if it is dropped on him, he uncoils and crawls away. Perhaps this is only a bit of myth, but every desert man knows the

A Giant Echinocactus

This specimen is nearly six feet tall. Smaller sizes are used for making a very good candy and preserve

golondrina — the creeping plant with tiny, round, gray-green leaves and minute, white blossoms with a brown centre.

"Rattlesnake-weed" grows in the little open spaces from the pines to the white sand-hills that shift back and forth in each year's wind. The leaves pounded into a wet mass are bound on a snake-bite, and the victim, man or animal, is given huge draughts of the bitter, dark tea into which the whole plant is steeped. The golondrina tea is used as a liniment for rheumatism, too, and the Mexican women know that it dyes cotton cloth an enduring purplish black.

8 OUT WEST

If the golondrina is too far to find, there is another desert cure for any snake-bite — a cure well enough attested and one with which many an Indian has fought bullet-wound and sabre-cut, and mas- tered incipient blood-poisoning. The leaves of any flat-leaved opuntia, but especially the common prickly pear, are thrown on a camp-fire till the thorns are singed ofif and the skin puffs up in watery blisters, then split open and bound hot on the wound. So many a pack-mule has been restored to place in the train, and many a limb that a physician would have amputated has been saved to do its owner good service on desert trails.

Under the sunrise the desert lay revealed — brown mountain-

Bear Grass of the Desert Foothills

This burns like oil when greenest, and is used by freighters for start- ing their camp-fires. The fiber of the long leaves are a favorite basket material with the Indians. "Sotol" is its Indian name.

ranges buttressed with foot-hills that lap and interlap against each other, set with spur-like peaks and jutting horns of dark rock, with deep passes between. Here and there along the sun-burned ranges, strange cliflfs and ledges intermingled at angles — as if the very flesh of the earth had slipped away and left the naked skeleton exposed to any curious gaze. There were long trails of rough, rounded boulders far down the barren slope of many a peak, as if the remnant of some giant cannonading lay scattered as it fell. Down these boulder-sweeps the prickly pear spread a gray-green trail, and the cholla balls rolled in prickly, pale-yellow waves.

Out from the hills the wide plain swung away against the horizon.

GOD'S COUNTRY— THE DBSBRT. 9

cut with yellow-brown sand-washes edged with pale-green mesquite and palo verde, and broken with the rugged, cliff-ribbed buttes where some lost mountain still thrust up above the sand.

All along the foothills tall clusters of whip-like ocatillo flamed with crimson blossoms ; the giant cactus wore crowns of waxen white, the cat-claw bushes were white with honey-sweet bloom, and. the tiny golden balls of the acacia distilled pure fragrance.

Elsewhere, in the higher mountains that were still desert, the older mescal plants showed thick buds like a giant asparagus-tip pushing apart the thorn-edged leaves of the heart; the flat-leaved opuntias were covered with blossoms of carven amber, and the rose- and-scarlet echinocereus flowers glowed against the gray rocks.

"Prickly Pear" in Fruit

The deep red fruit of the flat-leaved opuntias is a food-fruit of the Indians. It is used fresh, dried and made into a syrup or jelly.

Still elsewhere on the desert plains and sandy ridges, the great tree-yucca lifted its royal crown, of ten, twenty, fifty blossom-spikes — a yard, all set with hundreds of white waxen bells. And far away in the still truer desert, the dry, semi-level uplands crossed and rimmed with barren ranges, the lesser yuccas were content with a single white, flag-like spike, or two or three ; and the creeping opun- tias still spread a cloth-of-gold table for the bees, and the creosote bushes swayed their frail yellow blossoms against the green-white fragrant flowers of the dwarf mesquite.

Perhaps, in truth, "every league of land holds the need of a man," and perhaps every weed is indeed only an undiscovered flower. Not many things grow in the desert that the desert people have not some way used. It was as hard to starve an Apache to death in the

lo our WEST

lean, dry foothills as it would have been to starve a coyote ; he knew every moisture-hoarding root, every foot-seed and leaf and twig.

The Indian women of the desert tribes knew roots and barks that yielded dyes, and gums with which the basket water-bottles were pitched to make them tight, and others that were the secret of the glaze which certain pottery-makers could secure. They knew plants which supplemented the skill of the Medicine Men, and an expert basket-maker would adapt the material at hand, from mesquite and Cottonwood twigs to the supple arrow-weed and thread-like filaments of the bear-grass.

The mesquite was the mother-tree of the desert. If there was a seeping underflow of water, it grew twenty or thirty feet tall, with

Whipple's Opuntia — Hickhorn Cactus"

This ha-s greenish yellow blossoms; the ripe fruit is pale yellow. The nest of a cactus wren may be seen on one of the branches.

horizontal branches nearly as long — and by common tradition as much wood under ground as on top. If the earth was parched and poor, there was more wood underground; the dark, iron-hard roots forced their way down and around in a circle perhaps twice the spread of the dwarfed top which the wise tree dared to expose to the sun.

Here was firewood ; here was material for an enduring skeleton for the "stick-and-mud" huts ; here were dye-bark, and pitching- gum, and basket-twigs ; and, above all, here was a food-supply as dependable as any in the desert.

The mesquite was the bread-tree. In spring, while the delicate

GOD'S COUNTRY— THE DESERT. n

mimosa-like leaves are still a tender green, every twig and branch is wreathed as in a bridal garment of richly fragrant greenish-white blossoms like silky fringe — or fluffy white caterpillars. Following the blossoms, the slender beans grow long and thicken to yellow ripeness; but if there chanced a winter of drouth the blossoms withered and fell, or did not appear at all, and Indian and wild deer and little sand-burrowing squirrels alike took a reef in their belts and waited for some lucky summer-rain or river-overflow to bring a second blossoming and a winter harvest.

The Indians ate the beans before they were half grown, raw or cooked ; and when they ripened, whole tribes turned out to the harvest and stored great piles in basket-like granaries of twisted arrow-weed. The long pods enclose a seed rich in oil, and the pod

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Typicat. Upright Opuntia of thb Higher Desert Foothills

is itself sweet and of much food value. All day long, when the harvest is in, the old women sit and grind the beans between two flat stones into a meal that is baked into a hard bread, or used in mush, or stirred into the favorite rabbit-stew or into water and fer- mented in the sun to a sort of beer.

. In the summer the thick gum which exudes from the tree in drops is gathered, and the children eat it and grow fat, as the gum-arabic pickers are said to do. The Apaches pitch their woven water-bottles with it, and the Mexicans use it, dissolved in water, as a cure for sore-throat.

If the mesquite-bean was the desert bread, the mescal-heart was its cake and wine — served over a longer period perhaps, but at its best in spring and early summer. The mescal, the Indian Maguey,

«2 OUT WEST

is an agave, akin to the century-plant, with smaller, shorter leaves, tough and strong and armed with brown, hooked thorns all along their dull-green edges. It ranges over the desert from the high pine-forests to the rocky ridges and foot-hills where snow never falls.

When the thick cordage-like root strikes fast, it spreads out under- ground in all directions like the mesquite, and sends up new plants from the root-joints, till, when the old plant dies after blossoming, there is a colony of young plans of all sizes to take its place.

Year after year the pointed head of leaves in the center of the thorn-armed rosette thickens at the base, till some spring a big bud

The Home of the Greasewood, or Creosote The bitter smoke given off by its burning wood and leaves was some- times used by the Indians in torturing their captives.

like a clenched fist is thrust out; a giant asparagus-tip it might be, touched and tinted with rose and pink and bronze-wine over the pale, fresh green ; as thick as a man's arm, and growing taller at the rate of six inches or more a day, till at last it stands ten, fifteen feet in the air, bearing a many-branched spike of rich yellow blos- soms.

While it is still short, the strange, bright bud is sweet as sugar- cane and almost as tender as asparagus, and is eaten raw, or baked, or boiled. But this is only a summer luxury ; before the bud-tip emerges from the head of the plant, the Indian women and children leave the villages and go into the hills and cafions where the mescal- fields have been known for generations, and the baking-pits of long-

GOD'S COUNTRY— THE DESERT.

•3

past seasons may be found overgrown with bear-grass and prickly pear.

Sometimes the old pits are cleaned out ; more often, new ones are made in some spot not far from brushwood that will feed the fires. The mescal-heads are cut and heaped in piles — many heads, several days' cutting for all the party. Then the wood is dragged in, the pits lined with stones, and fires blaze on top till the earth and rocks are baking hot. The ashes are cleaned out of the hot pits as out of the

Creosote in Blossom

old-time clay ovens in which our grandmothers baked brown-bread and pies, and the clean mescal-heads are piled in and covered over with leaves, hot stones, andt a layer of earth.

Three days are allowed for a big baking, and the crisp heads come out soft and sweet and flavored, to the white man's taste, like molasses gingerbread. This baked mescal is eaten fresh, or pressed into tight rolls and dried in the sun, to be eaten like hard bread. Rolls of the baked mescal have been found in the cliff-dwellings

»4

OUT WEST

along with the corn-cobs and squash-shells and cotton-bolls of a forgotten people.

Not every mescal-head that was harvested on the rugged hillsides and along the deep caiion walls went into bread. The Mexicans have long distilled, in rude fashion, a fiery liquor from it, and the Apache had his own method of producing an "Apache cocktail," which has been described as "a cup of red-hot sulphuric acid, stirred with a Gila-monster's tail, and with a cholla-ball on top instead of a cherry."

One of the early desert poets, who was probably familiar with the drink, as he was with the customs of the Apaches, has described the method of making it.

Mescal in Blossom

"The leaves of Maguey head they shave, Then mash the substance to a pulp, Compressing all the juice of bulb Into a vat of stout rawhides. From which the sun the juice oxides, Forming a simple fermentation, Producing Apache intoxication. This liquor, distilled in horns alembous, Causes a 'delirium tremendous.' "

The desert people have never lacked the means of producing a "delirium tremendous" when so inclined, and the same poet has re- corded another method which is still in use and has lost none of its

GOD'S COUNTRY— THE DESERT.

•5

potency. Every few months there is an outbreak of tizwin moon- shining on the Apache reservations, and wicker jars of the sprouting corn are found buried in secluded spots. The poetic formula for tizwin runs thus :

"The Tizween drink is much enjoyed; To make it, Indian corn's employed ; They bury the corn until it sprouts — Destroying food for drinking bouts ; Then grind it in a kind of tray, Then boil it strong about a day;

?^i-': '.r.

Ready for Cattle Food

Most of the thorns have been burned from this opuntia. In this condi- tion cattle €at this cactus greedily.

Strain off the juice in willow sieve, And in the sun to ferment leave. The fermented juice is called tulpai, On which Apache chief gets high."

There was a lesser desert-bread harvest, in which the little brown acorns of the bushy scrub-oak, and the delicate nuts of the pifion- pine, and many grass-seeds had part. The corns were roasted around the camp-fires, and sometimes ground into meal for mush or hard, round cakes of bread. The nomad tribes followed the ripen- ing of the food-seeds, and on the upland mesas where the grasses

• 6 OUT WBST

grew tall the women wandered up and down brushing the ripe seeds with a little brush of bear-grass into the conical burden-baskets.

So the winter stores were gathered, but in late June and July and early August was the season of feasting, the harvest of the finest desert, fruit — the bright red fig-like fruit of the giant cactus, with a ruby syrup oozing out of every break in the glossy skin.

Stately and tall among its lesser brethren the Giant Cactus seems the embodied spirit of the desert ; its fluted trunk, as thick as a man's body, rising straight, or many-branched with strange, half- human arms, is the most striking thing in the desert landscape.

OCATiLivO IN Leaf and Bi^ossom

This plant drops its leaves at the first approach of the dry season.

The small red fruits are borne in a row at the end of the

long, slender stalks.

In scattering groves and singly it covers the low foot-hills and wide, sun-baked plains, and hangs like a daring climber on the deep cafion walls and rocky clififs. Gray-green, its even rows of whitish, brown-tipped thorns set outward, it stands unchanged by the chang- ing seasons till in May and early June the thick top and blunt arm- ends bear a circle of waxen-white flowers, in form like giant prickly- pear blossoms.

Then the wild bees, hived perhaps where some cactus-woodpecker has picked a nest-hole deep in the thorn-set trunk, and the green- winged humming-birds, whose nests cling unseen against the pale bark of the palo verde trees, have their fea.st-time while the silken

Giant Cactus in Bloom

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flowers are open ; but the birds and the Indian children know that their turn is coming.

The green figs grow large as an e^gg, and flush with pink, and redden, and drip lines of syrupy sweetness down the trunk to the ants and bees and feathery-winged honey-moths. Then the Indians leave the mountain-camps and the stick-and-mud huts along the rivers and the round "kees" of woven arrow-weed in the villages beside the irrigated fields in the valleys, and go out to the feast, armed with long, slender poles and every basket and bucket and bag.

With the poles the fruit is detached and lifted down carefully, for

Arrow-werd Along a Sand-wash

This plant — "the desert water-sign" — nearly always marks an under- flow of water at some season of the year. The slender tough stems are used for roofing the "stick-and-mud" houses, and by the Indians for the entire house, inwoven and plastered with mud.

the broken fruits ferment quickly. The few minute prickles are brushed off with a brush of grass and the ripe figs packed away for the journey home. Many are eaten fresh, some are dried and pressed into cakps like figs, or rolled in corn husks. The broken fruits are boiled into a rich syrup and stored in earthen jars, or mashed and stirred into water and fermented in the sun to a drink which is mild at first but grows more intoxicating till the cactus-fruit feasts end in a tribal "drunk" of peculiar thoroughness.

The Giant Cactus fruit is sweetest and best, but the fruit of nearly

GOD'S COUNTRY— THE DESERT.

»9

all the opuntias has some use, especially the prickly pear and the tuna, which are eaten fresh or made into a preserve — though old-time scouts believed that tuna-fruit would cause ague, and on a march the troops were forbidden to eat it.

The prickly-pear leaves are gathered when small and tender, and cooked as a vegetable ; and the smooth, hard, earthen floors of old- time adobe houses were made by mixing the clay with the gluey juice of prickly-pear leaves pounded and soaked in water.

One of the arborescent opuntias, the "grape-cactus," bears grape- like clusters of yellowish, acid fruit, which the Indians use in fevers and as a blood medicine; and the bisnaga, the big, heavy-thorned

"Squawbkrrv" in Fruit

This desert plant bears great quantities of orange-red berries some- what like a currant, which are much used by the Pima and Maricopa Indians for food, both fresh and made into a jam.

echinocactus which is called "the desert water-barrel," has yielded many a cup of fairly palatable water to thirsty travelers.

To get at the water, the top of the cactus is cut off or pounded off with a stick, and the white-green pulp pounded till the water can be squeezed out. The Papago Indians sometimes mix their bread with this juice, and Dr. Bigelow, of the Whipple survey in 1853, tells of finding fire-blackened specimens of the bisnaga with deep holes in the top along the Bill Williams Fork of the Colorado river. The Indian guide told him that the Indians of the region cooked the pulp by burying hot stones in the cavity, and used it as a food.

In the little adobe towns of the old Southwest, the most pic- turesque figure was the dulce-vender, with his slabs of bisnaga-heart

20 OUT WEST

crystallized in brown sugar spread out on a bit of dirty cloth or the top of a box. The flies were his best customers, but if sales were slow, the stock was not expensive ; for he had only to go into the desert and load a burro with young plants, and at his leisure strip off the thorns and boil down the sliced-up heart in his own scrap of back yard. And if to the semi-translucent, brownish-green chunks on the box-top he could add rolls of corn-husks showing infolded the deep, blood-red of dried cactus-figs, the stock was indeed com- plete.

A preserve, too, was made of the bisnaga-heart, and recently an enterprising candy-maker in a desert town has copied and improved upon the extinct dulce-man's chief ware, and tons of echinocactus

A Young Cholla, Showing Fallen Balls of Thorns This opuntia is dreaded by all animals, because of its thorn-armor.

go yearly into candies and sweetmeats. Three or four varieties are used in the sweetmeats and bear alike the names of "fish-hook cac- tus," "nigger-head," "desert water-barrel," and "bisnaga," but the true bisnaga has a rose-crimson blossom and thorns less curved than the "fish-hook," which is topped in June and July with a broad crown of rich yellow flowers, followed by many yellow fruits.

There is always a clean, subtle sweetness in the desert air, but when Spring touches the sun-filled spaces and calls every waiting bulb and herb and shrub into blossom there is pure fragrance in every wind that passes. The "cat-claw," a bushy acacia with tough,

SoMB Desert Dwei.lers

In this group are the giant cactus, opuntias, mamillaria, echinocactus, echinocereus, crucifix thorn, greas€-wood, catclaw, and other desert shrubs

22 OUT WEST

pliant, brown branches armed with short, stout "claws," forgets to stand defiant on every rocky slope, and veils itself in soft, creamy- white blossoms like downy baby caterpillars intent on becoming but- terflies. Wonderfully delicate and graceful, it sways above the brown rocks and fills the air with the odor of ripe melons or peaches. Like the mesquite, the cat-claw bears a bean beloved of the desert animals.

The pungent creosote, the "grease wood,'' whose resin-coated

Opuntia Arborescens — "Grape Cactus"

The pale yellow-green fruit of this cactus is borne in clusters like

grapes. It has a pleasant acid flavor, and is used by the Indians as

a tonic and cure for fevers.

glossy green leaves and supple brown twigs never lose the odor of some incense gum, infolds a succession of frail-petalled yellow flow- ers, faintly sweet and passing quickly to silver-winged seeds. The creosote has no thorny armor, but there is no plant of all the desert tribes more secure. The glossy resin-coat is its defence — bitter and nauseous to the mouth of the hungriest jack-rabbit or wandering burro.

Probably this very quality has given it a fictitious, healing vir- tue, for the leaves, twigs, and bark are all used ; boiled into a fomen-

GOD"S COUNTRY— THE DESERT.

«3

tation and a poultice for swellings and snake bites ; the tea used as a wash for wounds that refuse to heal, and the leaves dried and powdered on cuts and sores. A lighter brew of the tea is used as a tonic, and if bitterness is evidence it should possess all the curative powers.

There was once a man who in his haste described the Southwest as "a place where they cut hay with a hoe and fire-wood with a sledge-hammer." He was remembering some experience with the desert ironwood — the palo fierro with which many mines and some of the "burro-line" railroads still fire their engines. When the creosote is covered with a silver mist of ripening seeds, the low foot- hills and wide sand-washes are a glory of pink and white, as of end- less orchards of almond trees in full blossom.

Palo Verde Tree in Vvtx. Bloom

The droning music of many wings fills the air, bees and hum- ming birds and honey-moths and hordes of bright, strange insects, all drawn by the clusters of locust-like blossoms that clothe the stern, thorn-armored tree with such gracious beauty. The honey- filled flowers are followed by a bean, sweeter and more prized than even the mesquite-bean ; and the wood, dark and heavy enough to merit the name it bears, is as beautiful as some tawny tiger-skin under the jewel-like polish which it takes with proper handling.

As often as not the tall column of the Giant Cactus rises out of a veil of delicate green — the smooth green, graceful branches and lace-like leaves of the Palo Verde, which seems to have taken upon itself the duty of sheltering the baby "giants" till they are safe from

24 OUT WEST

deer and cattle and jack-rabbits. In the remotest canons these beau- tiful trees swing like green mist of falling water against the rugged rocks, and in the lower deserts they stand in spring, the very spirit of other-worldly grace and mystery, the green branches hidden in films of pale gold. "The shower of gold" it has been called, and the blossoms, silken and delicate as the crape-myrtle, seem to glisten softly in the sun as if powdered with golden dust. After the flowers come smooth green pods, ripening to yellow and bearing sweet beans. When the little "stick-and-mud" desert home is built, with roof poles of palo verde or mesquite and sides of the white ribs of a dead giant cactus plastered over with clay, there will be a fence set around it of ocatillo poles, cut up on the hills where the tall clumps of this "fish-pole" cactus (which is not a cactus at all) chooses to grow.

Where the Bean Harvest is Stored

Every inch of the slim, straight length is set with inch-long spines, and the woody heart is tough and pliant as a whip. Set close in a trench, this is a fence no prowler, four-footed or two-footed, cares to pass, and if the poles are cut in proper season they strike root and grow and bear their crimson blossom-flags and row of round red fruits as cheerfully as out on the rocky hill-slopes.

Such a fence guards the little "burro-power" oasis where Ching Lee sorts his vegetables under the shade of the big grape-vine that, having outgrown its trellis of rough poles, has flung out its entwin- ing arms across the apricot tree to the mesquite beyond, and mingles its purple clusters of fruit with the yellow beans.

Here, while the chug, chug of the pump ends in the splash of water into the earth-scooped tank as the burros plod round and round, and Ching ties green onions into bunches and packs string-

GOD'S COUNTRY— THE DESERT.

»5

beans into wet gunny-sacks, the desert men, who have stopped to fill their canteens and water-kegs, hold an herb-market, and hoarded "cures" are traded back and forth.

This man down from the mountains opens his pack and divides a thick bundle of stringy, pale-brown bark thin as paper — the treas- ured alouseme of the Mexicans, the "quinine-bush" of the mountain prospector, the mountain-fever cure of scout and pioneer, Coivania stansburiana. This beautiful evergreen shrub has a wide range, but comes to its best in the cooler mountains. It might be mistaken for a young cedar of short, finely-cut foliage and brighter green till in May it is covered with cream-white flowers in rich profusion and of strange and overpowering fragrance. They are not unlike a very

An Oasis — Garden of the Pima Mission Church

small wild-rose in form, and successive but lighter crops follow the first lavish flowering till snow-fall.

Leaf, flower, twigs, bark are all bitter to the tongue as powdered quinine, and the bark steeps into a tea of the last degree of bitter- ness— said to break a fever quicker than quinine and to stop hemor- rhage when all else fails. In midsummer the bark of the larger shrubs peels off in ragged strips, and the new bark following this is most valued.

With the bark the mountain man had a flour-sack half full of glossy leaves and brown twigs, now dry and brittle — the "yerba santa" of the adobe foot-hills, the sovereign remedy for coughs and colds. Steeped into tea and mixed with wild honey, the clear, strong tea used as a tonic drink, it is said to cure pneumonia and to hold consumption in check.

?6

OUT WEST.

The yerba santa, a bushy shrub with deep green leaves, ranges from a foot to four feet tall and inhabits the sheltered slopes of cer- tain foot-hills. Narrow in its distribution, it is all the more sought and prized by the barterers under the big grape-vine.

Down in Ching Lee's water-tank, another valued remedy for colds and lung troubles is growing — the "yerba mansa," a water plant like a slender leafed arum, with a thick root which is steeped into a cough-syrup and soothing drink!

Ching had another herb-medicine, the root of the bottle-weed boiled into an amber tea of rather pleasant taste — a cure for rheu- matism and other ills. This plant, which is named from the curious thickening of the stem just below the flowering branches, grows

A Burro-Power Oasis in the Desert

sparingly in the hills of the lower desert — an inconspicuous plant, easily passed by, but sought for its curative qualities.

Before the water kegs were filled, a Mexican came in with a roll of slender, green twigs like dwarf palo verde branches tied on top of his pack. It was "Brigham's tea," "Mormon tea" — the plant which furnished the Mormon pioneers a substitute for sassafras and for real tea as well. This leafless shrub Hke a dwarf palo verde ranges over the entire Southwest and is none so bad as a drink, whatever its medicinal value may be.

So, as the desert has its own sources of food, it has its own agents of healing, meeting, no doubt, the need of its people as truly as the lavish resources of other lands meet the multiplied needs which they have fostered.

Dewey, Arizona.

A Cleft in the Desert Hills

z8

A RED PARASOL IN MUXICO

By J. rORREY CONNOR

VIII.

IN PURSUIT OF THE PREHISTORIC.

WISH you would shut the door, Niece Polly," said the professor crossly. "If there is a spot in this hotel where a draught isn't blowing three ways at once, I have failed to find it."

"How is your poor head?" Aunt Zenia inquired, solicitously. "I don't like to leave you when you are feeling so indis- posed— "

"There is nothing to hinder you from going — nothing at all," the professor interrupted. "We shall be here in Cuernavaca a week or ten days, and I can make the trip to Xochicalco at any time. The guide and horses have been engaged ; go along and don't argue. From women who argue, good Lord, deliver us !"

When the professor spoke in that tone. Aunt Zenia meekly capitu- lated.

"Very well," she said, skewering her hat in place by a well-directed jab of the hat-pin. "Hand me my camera, please, Polly. I wonder if five plate-holders will be enough."

Polly ran to the veranda rail as the sound of horses' hoofs, rat- tling on the cobbles of the patio, was heard. "All aboard for Xochicalco!" she called. Seen in the dewy freshness of the morning, Cuernavaca, which,

The Country Road

A RED PARASOL IN MEXICO

29

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"THEY PASSED CLUMSY OX-TEAMS "

on their arrival the night previous, had impressed them by its pic- turesqueness, took on new aspects of beauty. The low-eaved adobe houses, washed over by faint bkies or rose-pinks, were charming bits of color in their tropic setting. The Peru-tree of slender green leaf, jewelled with red berries, swept the tiled roofs with its lace- like foliage ; bougainvillea wreathed the casements, and roses nodded from balconies ; palms lifted their feathery fronds high in air, lending the finishing touch to the picture.

The guide turned to the right, and took the road that led to San Anton, the home of the pottery maker^ where every hut boasts its kiln and every man is an artisan.

They galloped through the one crooked street of the pueblo, with its cane shacks crowded together behind the low stone walls over which blossoming vines ran riot, and were out again upon the high- way, passing clumsy ox-teams and droves of burros, going to market.

30

OUT WEST

"Are you aware," said Aunt Zenia, instructively, "that the road we are following is the old Acapulco trail leading from the seaport to the City of Mexico? Think what it must have been in the six- teenth century, when the yearly galleons from the Indies and Spain discharged their rich cargoes at Acapulco — a continuous procession of mules, freighted with Indian cotton, silks from far Cathay, spices and gums worth their weight in gold, passing along this highway, bells a-tinkling, drivers shouting — "

A violent fit of coughing interrupted her ; Polly rounded the period neatly with :

-AND DROVES OF BURROS-

"And dust a-flying."

"No doubt," Miss Snodgrass agreed. "But think of it. Niece Polly — a little matter of some centuries afterward the stately galleons are only a memory, the pack trains with their jangling bells are gone — and zve are here !"

For an hour the guide, a Mexican, kept to the road ; then he struck off across the fields that skirted the hills, following a trail that zig- zagged about and picking a path among volcanic rock as the ascent became steeper.

Aunt Zenia was wondering, for the twentieth time, if they would ever arrive at the ruins, and for the twentieth time Polly was reas-

A RED PARASOL IN MEXICO

3>

suring her on that point, when the guide, swinging sidewise in his saddle, motioned toward a flat-topped hill ahead.

"The Hill of the Flowers," he cried.

A barranca opened before them — a gaping wound in the seamed, scarred face of the volcanic country. There was but one way of reaching the other side, and that was by crossing a primitive stone bridge, narrow, and lacking rails to g^ard against a possible plunge to the rocks and the rio below.

The guide, still sitting sidewise in the saddle, nonchalantly rolled a cigarette as his horse stepped. out on the bridge. Aunt Zenia hesi- tated a moment, then, clutching her cherished camera more firmly,

Going to Market

loosed the rein. Polly shut her eyes and clung desperately to the pommel as her mount, nose to the ground, followed.

"I should like to have an opportunity to inspect the bridge — it is surely prehistoric," said Aunt Zenia, "but we'll take the other, the longer, way to Cuemavaca. I'm not anxious to repeat this tight-rope performance."

She dismounted and started up the hill.

"Tell the guide to tie the horses where they can browse," she called back.

The cerro, which was three hundred feet or more in height, was once surrounded by a ditch deep and wide; but the accumulated debris of years had filled it level full in places. A succession of

D

Pi

« X H

A RED PARASOL IN MEXICO

33

spiral terraces led to the summit, where, on a wide esplanade, were the remains of three truncated structures. When Polly and the guide arrived, they found her regarding doubtfully a brush -covered mound of earth and stones.

"Well, are you going to the top and have a iook-see,' as Peter would say?'' Polly wanted to know.

Aunt Zenia smiled.

"There isn't much to see" — She stopped and clutched Polly's arm. "Mercy! A man! What do you suppose he is doing here?"

"You might ask him," Polly suggested, mischievously.

"Just what I intend to do," Aunt Zenia returned, with a militant air.

Detail of Temple Carving

The man vyas seated on a hummock with his back toward them.. It was a broad back, and the checkerboard pattern of the cloth which covered it had a tendency to emphasize the breadth.

At the sound of voices, the man jumped up and faced about with an expectant look ; but at sight of the two ladies the look of expect- ancy changed to one of astonishment. \

"Bless my soul !'' he ejaculated, settling his spectacles more firmly upon his nose. "Bless my soul ! I thought it was my daughter Zitella and the guide."

"Are you an archaeologist?" Aunt Zenia demanded.

"No, Ma'am! I'm a self-made man. and I don't care who knows

34

OUT WEST

it. My name's Cook." He searched for his card case, found it, and presented a card to Aunt Zenia with a flourish. "Hiram Cook," he pursued, as if to identify himself beyond question.

Aunt Zenia's doubts were allayed, as Polly noted with amusement. Almost graciously she introduced herself and Polly to Mr. Hiram Cook, who was not an archaeologist.

"Either of you ladies been to see the monnmcnt on the hill?" he asked. "No? Well, it's a sight. My daughter is up there, with our guide."

"It would perhaps be as well to inspect the temple now," Aunt

Miss Zitella and the Guide

Zenia responded. "If you will kindly lead the way, Mr. Cook, we will follow.

As they struggled through the tall grass they saw ahead of them an open space, clear of brush and trees, in the center of which were the ruins of the temple, covering an area of fifty feet square. The edifice was pyramidal in shape, each insloping terrace having pent eaves above it. But the temple received secondary consideration ; Miss Zitella came first.

She was attired in knickerbockers and jaunty riding coat, and wore upon her head a straw sombrero. At first glance, Aunt Zenia mistook her for a good-looking boy.

"You are from the States, aren't you?" bubbled Miss Zitella,

A RED PARASOL IN MEXICO

35

leaning over the pommel of her saddle and grasping Aunt Zenia's reluctant hand. "It seems so good to meet someone from — "

"Zitella," interrupted her father, "let's put the matter fair and square to the ladies, and get their opinion. It's my purpose, Ma'am," turning to Aunt Zenia, "to buy the castle, or monnmeiit, or what- ever you call it. What say? The government won't sell it? Don't tell me that there is anything in this doggoned country that they won't sell for good American dollars. Zitella isn't in favor of it. I've been trying to talk her over before making a business call on Diaz."

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Prehistoric Bridge, Xochicalco

"But why on earth do you wish to buy the temple?" queried Aunt Zenia, with unflattering emphasis on the "you."

"Me? Oh, it's just a notion. Thought I'd have the stones carted over to Cuernavaca, and build me a summer house in the Borda garden. I tell you, Ma'am, the people of Chicago would sit up and take notice when they came to see old Hiram Cook. Xow, what do you think of it ?"

"I think," said Aunt Zenia. with the courage of her convictions, "that you are a dreadful man to even dream of such a thing!"

In a reckless moment Aunt Zenia had been known to drop into slang, but never before had she been guilty of a split infinitive.

"My aunt doesn't mean — " began Polly, apologetically; but Miss Zitella forestalled her.

A RED PARASOL IN MEXICO

37

•*Just what / told him," she cried, gleefully.

"What's so very particular about this stone pile?" Mr. Cook stub- bornly pursued.

Aunt Zenia gxirgled helplessly.

"It's prehistoric," Polly volunteered.

Mr. Cook pushed his glasses up on his forehead, the better to see.

"These marks here — what might they mean ?" He leaned against the wall and traced the carvings with a stubby forefinger.

"The pictographs? I would give a pretty penny to know. So would a number of people I might mention. Why, it would be name, fame and fortune for the person who solved the riddle ! The

"of cane huts"

people who built the temple could answer the question ; but no one of our day, I fear, may read the history writ in stone. Long, long ago. Abbe Brasseur de P>ourbourg, a priest of Guatemala, thought he had discovered the key to hieroglyphics found on monuments of the pre-Columbian era. He was the first to detect the similarity between the hieroglyphics in the Maya manuscript, in the library at Dresden, and those on the monuments in Yucatan, Guatemala, Honduras and Mexico. Nothing resulted from this discovery, how- ever.''

"Um !" commented Mr. Cook.

"You will observe that the temple is constructed of granite blocks,

'38 OUT WEST

about seven feet long. These blocks must have been brought from a distance, as there is no trace of granite in the vicinity of Xochicalco. You will also observe that the carving on the last tier of stones is continuous, representing a reptile coiled about the base of the pile.

"Regular old sea-serpent, ain't he?'' Mr. Cook chimed in, feeling called upon to sustain his part in the conversation.

"The figures of men — notice the Egyptian cast of features and the Egyptian head-dress — are numerous," Aunt Zenia continued, recognizing that here was virgin ground for her seeds of wisdom. "The carving is fully two inches deep. I'm going to make thorough research into the matter of the Egyptian head-dress."

"Can't say I like the cut of his whiskers." Mr. Cook was still tracing the carvings with his fingers.

"Did you ladies come here on a picnic?" inquired Miss Zitella, wisely steering the conversation away from archaeology.

"Er — something like it," Polly returned. "Will you share our lunch ?"

Aunt Zenia's guide, who, with the help of the other guide, was emptying the saddle-bags, suddenly vittered an exclamation, holding up to view the neck of a beer bottle, and displaying in expressive pantomime the most poignant sorrow for his carelessness.

"You can't eat the stuff," said Mr. Cook, when an examination of the lunch had revealed its fragmentary condition. "What are you going to do?''

"I'll send the guide to the Indian village. He shall engage quar- ters for the night, and bring us something — anything — to eat. I intend to stay right here and photograph these ruins as long as the light is good."

"Better give it up and come with us to Cuernavaca," advised Mr. Cook. .

But Aunt Zenia was not to be diverted from her purpose ; and the Cooks, with oft-repeated expressions of pleasure at having met people from "the States," and with promises to see their new-found friends in Cviernavaca, rode away.

Aunt Zenia watched them out of sight with a smile which she vainly imagined to be tolerant.

They are the kind of people who do an art gallery in thirty min- utes," she remarked, "but they know no better. Here! Give this to the guide. Now don't bother me ; I want to take a picture of the side of the temple before the light changes."

The guide took the money, and strode off down the hill to the place where the horses were tethered.

"He's hitting the high places," Polly observed.

"I hope it will be frijolcs," returned Aunt Zenia, absently, her mind sub-consciously dwelling on hopes of dining.

IN TUNE 39

Polly sat down, with what patience she might, to await Aunt Zenia's pleasure. Unconscious of it though she was, the peace and quiet of the afternoon had stolen into her heart ; she dreamed awake, a smile on her lips.

Aunt Zenia's brisk voice broke the spell, and brought back her wandering thoughts.

"I haven't another plate left. Where do you suppose the guide is, all this time. I never was so hungry in my life."

"Fve found a sardine can — empty, unfortunately," said Polly, unearthing the tin from a crevice with the toe of her boot.

"A sardine can ! It sort of humanizes the immortal pile, doesn't it? By the way, Maximilian once entertained an idea similar to Mr. Cook's. He wanted to remove this structure, block by block, to Cuernavaca. The project was finally abandoned, but not before the temple had been partially demolished and the blocks of granite scattered on the ground. Is that the guide ? At last ! What does he say?"

"He says," Polly repeated, after a short conference with the Mex- ican, "that there is a fiesta in the Indian village, with very much eating, very much drinking, and very much fighting. What shall we do?*'

"Do? Go back to Cuernavaca, of course. We'll be in luck if we get out of this mountainous country before dark."

"We are in luck as it is — we have survived the bridge," Polly

made reply.

[To be continued.]

IN tune:

By BERTHA McE. KNIPE. 'F I must walk alone By woodland ways. Or in the open fields

Through opal haze,

Then tune my heart strings, Master!

Let them thrill, I pray.

To every subtle sound

Along the way —

To every fleeting cry of raptured pain,

To every sighing note in love's refrain,

Yea, tune my heart strings, Master!

May they thrill anew

To every voice of pleading

'Neath God's arch of blue. Phoenix, Arizona.

Merced River Below Moss Canon

41 *A NHW PORTAL TO PARADISE

By WILI.OUGHBY RODMAN ESCRIPTIONS of Yosemite. are numerous, and all are inadequate. No human pen or tong^ue could truly set forth the matchless charms of this wonderful valley. Nothing could be added to the place itself. But a new approach has been found, which brings it nearer the every-day world. While the drives over the various stage-roads, which have heretofore been the only means of reaching the valley, were attractive, their first stages were so hot and dusty as to dis- courage the average tourist. Now a railroad to within fourteen miles of the valley eliminates what have been considered the only objectionable features of the trip.

The Yosemite Valley Railroad takes the tourist from Merced to El Portal, a distance of about eighty miles. The road follows the valley of the Merced, making frequent crossings of the river.

Although the mountain walls of its upper reaches are lacking, the scenery of the lower Merced is attractive. For a few miles, stretch- ing wheat-fields aflFord views of typical Central California land- scapes. Entering the foot-hills, the road closely follows the river, which at times is far below the track, again close to it. Flowing quietly in a narrow rocky channel, the lower river is in striking contrast with the dashing stream of the higher mountains.

For miles the banks are cut and seamed with ditches and other

The Portai, from a Distance

lUustntions from photographs by Edgar A. Cohen

42 OUT WEST

works of placer mines, while heaps of debris and "slickens" are in evidence. Several long ditches cut out of the mountain side, at times carried over water-courses or around cliffs upon masonry, and evidently constructed at great expense of money and labor, bear witness to the extent of mining operations and the energy of the old miners.

These, and gashes in the mountain sides, showing entrances to mines, and the cabin homes of the miners, confirm our belief that we have been transported to Bret Harte land, and before our mental eye come visions of rich bars, red shirts, six-shooters and big poker games.

A few^ mines are in active operation, notably the Ragley, w^here

In the Portal

a large stamp mill has been installed, and extensive operations are in progress.

As we ascend the river the scenery becomes more attractive, until at tne terminus we realize that we are in the mountains.

The road ends where a broadening of the valley gives place for a little village of houses and tents.

El Portal, the terminus, is most aptly named. "Entrance'' or "Gateway" seem commonplace, and would indicate the approach to an ordinary locality, but "El Portal" implies that beyond lies some- thing mystic, entrancing. And so it is, for this resting place in the valley is the portal to an enchanted region.

Shaded by large live oaks, in sound of the river, cooled by moun- tain breezes. El Portal is a most attractive spot.

*^iasip^

Falls op Cranb Crbek

44

OUT WEST

After a night in beds which are the boast of the hotel and which compel repose, the tourist takes a stage-coach for the valley. As a mere drive, the journey from El Portal to Yosemite is tame when compared with old-time mountain staging. There are no steep climbs or break-neck descents, nothing to show forth the skill and nerve of the driver. A few old-timers work on the line, but their glory has departed. No longer the autocrat and aristocrat of the road, the defender of the weak, the driver is now only a driver. But one characteristic he does retain — he loves to "stuff the tender- foot," and does it.

The shades of Hank Monk and his contemporaries hover not over the road. Even the pleasing dread of a hold-up is missing. But

Looking Out of Portal

the managers of the line are enterprising, and this feature may be added to the numerous attractions of the trip.

The roadway, constructed by the Federal government, is broad and smooth. Passing is possible at any point, and a driver is de- prived of the pleasure of "cussing the other fellow" while waiting at a turn-out.

As we proceed, the usual menagerie comes into view. Rocks and mountains become all sorts of animals. Old-men-of-the-mountain obtrude their rocky features. Camels, elephants and other creatures appear. A mountain will be "very like a whale" one minute, the next to become the exact counterpart of a sewing machine. Why is it people persist in seeing things in the mountains ? Surely moun- tains and cliffs are sufficiently attractive in themselves, without our

Cataract at North Forks Bridge

46

OUT WEST

seeking to see in them apes, camels, populists and other strange beasts.

Should this article come to the notice of the managers of the road and the custodians of Yosemite Valley, their attention is called to a serious omission. Neither on the road nor in the valley is there a ''Lovers' Leap." Every 20-mile line in the East has its lovers' leap, but here in the grandest mountains of the United States there is no place where despairing swain and sighing maiden may plunge from parental pursuit. Of course there are numerous places from which lovers could jump. But no one spot has been fixed by tradition or designated by proper authority. It may be that the gentle breezes which at twilight breathe through the pines are the

On the Way to Ei. Portai.

sighs of those who have sought in vain the romantic, oblivious leap.

The scenery grows in beauty and grandeur as the valley ascends. Foaming brooks plunge down the mountain. Streams leap in mad cascades from the cliffs. Mysterious pines sigh in harmony with the music of the waters. Foot-hills give place to mountains. Beet- ling crags and precipitous cliffs replace the gentle wooded slopes of the lower levels.

While the mountains supply the element of grandeur to the view, the touch of beauty is given by the river. Nothing could be more beautiful than the reaches and pools of this bewitching stream. At times it flows gently through arches of foliage, or rests in quiet pools, soon to plunge over a fall in sheets of foam and showers of diamond spray into a boiling whirlpool. In many places the bed

Bridai. Veii. Falls

The Blephant

If UNIVERSITY

Of

A NEW PORTAL TO PAR AD I SB 49

of the stream is filled with enormous rocks, fragments of the over- hanging cliffs. Around and over these the water finds its way.

No two views are alike, and the drive is a succession of delights. One never grows weary of such scenes. To the nature-lover, in- crease of appetite grows by what it feeds on.

At last some subtle prescience tells us we are nearing the valley. No specific change of scenery, no individual feature of the landscape gives the message, but we feel it.

Then the misty Bridal Veil tells us our dream has come true. El Capitan graciously permits approach to his domain. Then, one by one, the individual features of the valley, coming so rapidly as almost to appall the spirit, bid us know we have reached our goal.

There are higher water falls, higher cliffs and taller mountains than those of Yosemite ; but nowhere in the world is there such an aggregation of wonders as in this valley.

With its verdant meadows, cultivated fields, detached shade-trees, and winding woodland roads, the floor of the valley has the pastoral charm of an Eastern or English landscape. Turning from these peaceful scenes, we look upon lofty walls of rock, with distant moun- tain peaks beyond. It may be that the long approach, with its in- creasing beauty and grandeur, is necessary to prepare us for the consummate glory of the valley itself — that the spirit must be attuned to respond to the supreme harmony of nature.

The greater number of tourists visit the valley early in the season. This is considered desirable, because the streams are full and the waterfalls more impressive.

It was the writer's fortune to visit the valley late in September, 1907. The volume of the streams had greatly diminished. Yosemite fall was a pitiful ghost of itself. At times only a thin thread of foam was visible, instead of the cataract of spring-time. Bridal Veil fall had greatly diminished. At times the wind would carry the entire stream away from its cliff. The most striking effect came when a sudden erratic puff carried the stream vertically into the air, pro- ducing the appearance of an inverted waterfall.

Vernal fall at first gave slight evidence of the effect of low water, but two weeks later it had dwindled to three separate streams cling- ing to the cliff.

To the writer Nevada is the grandest of the Yosemite falls. At full flood the stream leaps clear of its cliff with a thunderous roar. In September, the water follows the face of the cliff and roars more gently. But what the fall loses in grandeur, it gains in beauty.

As its spray-drops catch the sunlight, the foamy sheet of the cataract is a veil of lace sewn with diamonds. It would be difficult to imagine a more beautiful sight than the Nevada fall in an early morning of autumn. Standing one day at the foot of Nevada, as

50 OUT WEST

the early sun came into the valley, I saw the light shine through the crest of the fall. Ordinarily blinding clouds of spray forbid near approach to the falls. But in September one may stand on the rims of the base-pools. But the approach is dangerous, as the water-worn granite and sandstone boulders are so smooth as to render footing exceedingly uncertain. There are the usual legends of enormous trout inhabiting these pools, fish so fierce and strong that the break- ing of ordinary tackle is their pastime. With fear and trembling I tried for one of these monsters in the pool of Bridal Veil. With eyes partly blinded by spray, chilled by the wind of the fall — the "Evil Wind" of Indian legend, I hooked and played a leviathan — eight inches in length.

A word as to Yosemite trout. They are wise with the wisdom and lore of the ages. The most fascinating flies, the most luscious baits are unavailing. Young fish may take a languid interest in fly or bait, regarding it slightly, then expressing their contempt by a flirt of the tail against one's hook. The elders rest in blase indif- ference, not even taking trouble to recognize the angler's existence.

Like other natives, the trout have acquired their wisdom from the whites. Every tourist must try for a trout, and does so with tackle of all sorts and sizes. It is likely that the fish refuse through pure disgust at the means employed for their beguilement. In Little Yosemite, and other tributaries of the Merced, where the trout are less sophisticated, sport is excellent, but it is not so within tourist range. Indians are the most successful fishermen. It is said — by the rest of us — that they trap their fish, but this is probably slan- derous.

It is difficult to tell when the valley is more attractive, in spring or autumn. Each season has its peculiar charm. In the spring the verdure is more vivid, the cataracts mofe impressive and wild flowers more numerous and more brilliantly colored. But the autumn has its wild flowers, shy, modest creatures which claim the field after the departure of their brighter sisters of the spring. And then, also, the valley has a charm which, whenever felt, wins the heart to vague, wandering dreams of beauty — the spell of Indian summer. No positive sign tells us of its coming. But a "nip" in the air, tints of gold and scarlet in the woodlands, a subtle influence tempting us to a gentle pensiveness — not melancholy, but not gay — tell us that the dream-time of the year has come. Indescribable, elusive, it calls to us to wander afield in the land of the lotus.

if there are places of greater beauty or sublimity than Yosemite in the autumn, they must be in another world.

Every one who has seen the valley must return, and those who have seen it in spring-time alone, are urged to make their next visit in the autumn.

THE CALL OF THE DESERT 5»

Yosemite is said to be wonderfully impressive in winter, and we can well believe it.

Heretofore the valley has been inaccessible during nearly half the year. As the stage-roads approach over the highlands, the heavy snows of winter render them impassable. But the railway and the short drive along lower levels, has made approach possible during the greater part of the year. Upon completion of the Government road from El Portal, it is the intention of the authorities to keep it open during the entire year. The valley is now under the control of the United States, having been ceded to the Federal Government by the State, the change resulting in a marked improvmnt in con- ditions.

Two troops of cavalry are encamped near Yosemite fall ; and khaki-clad troopers galloping through the roads, and the evolutions of guard-mount add a picturesque touch to the landscape.

In concluding a rambling account of a ramble, let me say: See Yosemite ! If you have seen it, go again ; if you have seen it twice, go again.

Los Angeles.

THE CALL or THE DESERT

By MABEL ANN SMITH. ♦ffli^AVE you lain throughout a summer night beneath a velvet sky, ukj Where, caught in trailing drifts of cloud, the moon went floating by? Have you heard the tread of four-foot things that round the camp-fire prowl. And shivered in your blanket at the lone coyote's howl ?

Have you seen the morning sunlight gild the canon's lofty wall, Or the purple haze of evening fold the mesas in its pall ? Have you felt the flying sand-spray's stinging touch upon your face, While the painted cliffs behind you stood unchanging in their place ?

Who is there has known the Desert ? He will love her to the last. Still her magic spell will hold him, after scores of years have passed. He'll be longing, while the city's din is surging in his ears. For the land of golden silence, where the hand of God appears ;

For that ample land, and spacious, lying far beneath the sky, Slumb'rous plain and mighty headland, where the passing shadows

lie. Think you to forget the Desert ? Nay, where'er your lot is cast, On your head her seal is graven ; she will call you to the last. Redlands, Cal.

5»

SPRING IN THE DESERT

By SHARLOT M. HALL. ILENCE, and the heat lights shimmer like a mist of sifted silver, Down across the wide, low washes where the strange

sand rivers flow; Brown and sun-baked, quiet, waveless, trailed with bleaching, flood-swept boulders ; Rippled into mimic water where the restless whirlwinds go.

On the banks the gray mesquite trees droop their slender, lace- leafed branches, Fill the lonely air with fragrance, as a beauty unconfessed ; Till the wild quail comes at sunset with her timorous, plumed covey, And the iris-throated pigeon coos above her hidden nest.

Every shrub distills vague sweetness ; every poorest leaf has

gathered Some rare breath to tell its gladness in a fitter way than speech ; Here the silken cactus blossoms flaunt their rose and gold and

crimson. And the proud saguarro lifts its pearl-carved crown from careless

reach.

Like to Lilith's hair down-streaming, soft and shining, glorious,

golden, Sways the queenly palo verde robed and wreathed in golden flowers ; And the spirits of dead lovers might have joy again together Where the honey-sweet acacia weaves its shadow- fretted bowers.

Velvet-soft and glad and tender goes the night-wind down the

cafions. Touching lightly every petal, rocking leaf and bud and nest ; Whispering secrets to the black bees dozing in the tall wild lilies. Till it hails the sudden sunrise trailing down the mountain's crest.

Silence, sunshine, heat lights painting opal-tinted dream and vision Down across the wide, low washes where the whirlwinds wheel and

swing ; — What of dead hands, sun-dried, bleaching? What of heat and thirst

and madness? Death and life are lost, forgotten, in the wonder of the spring. Dewey, Arizona.

53 SMALL THINGS IN THE YOSEMITE

By JOSEPH ANTHONY. 3HE YOSBMITE ! Is it possible that anything more can be told about it? It would seem as if the place had been visited, talked and written about until it and the subject had been worn out. But how little one does know of the Valley, or of what is to be seen and found there, even after seeing many pictures and reading many books !

Until we had been there we could not get things straight, and there are many things for us to learn about it yet, for a month's stay is no more than a starter.

How many things there were for us to unlearn. We expected to get a lot of nice sugar-pine sugar; there was just one tree, with a little bitter sugar on it.

We thought we might get one-half pound of pine-gum; with very little work we got two pounds.

People told us there were no rattlesnakes, and one of the first things that happened I came very near being bitten by one. We were somewhat anxious about being able to get around the valley and over the trails on foot. We were told the dust was six inches deep — that the trails were steep and dangerous. We could not think of using horses, or the stages, so tramped, finding plenty of dust on some of the roads, to be sure, but it was "clean dirt," and the trails are good — not a foot of dangerous way did we go over.

My wife walked one hundred miles and I one hundred and fifty, one hundred of which we carried baby on our backs, getting along H'ith comfort and pleasure, seeing and finding things that people do not who have not learned to walk.

First of all we made our camp at Number Five, or Cho-Lack. The valley is laid out in camp-sites. People coming in must register at the guardian's office, then he will direct them to a certain place to camp.

For ten dollars a month Mr. Salter, who keeps the store, fur- nished us with a tent, stove, cots and new bedding, table, cooking and table dishes, and, as we told him, with all our camping-out that was the first time we ever had enough dishes. We got groceries at the store, and they cost but little more than in San Francisco. There was plenty of wood — only had to be brought about a quarter of a mile. Good running water just back of our tent.

The days of September were warm, the nights cool, and a camp- fire in front of the tent each evening made it very pleasant. From the camp we made short trips, each day a little longer one, to get toughened up, till at last we could walk ten or fifteen miles without feeling much tired.

Of the Indians who used to live in the valley we found many signs

54 OUT WEST

and some relics. Near the foot of Bridal Veil Falls, in a dense thicket of little fir trees, is an immense boulder, entirely covered with thick green moss and lichens. Against the north face are still lean- ing great slabs of cedar bark, making a good o-chum, or Indian house, and looking very much as though the Indians had made it, but we could learn nothing about it, even from people who had lived many years in the valley.

At the mouth of Indian Canon are the remains of six or more ochums. The cedar bark lies on the ground just as it fell or was torn down.

Of ho-yas, or mortar-holes in large granite rocks, we found one hundred and sixty-six. At Indian Canon there is a flat rock about ten by sixteen feet, with forty-six holes in it — the most we have ever found in any one rock in the valley, or at any other Indian camp-site. This rock is about level with the ground.

Just west of the road to the foot of the Yosemite Falls is a large high boulder with thirty-eight holes on top. This rock they had to ciimb to get on it, and it must have been a favorite place with the women, for it was worn smooth in several spots. Near the foot of the trail to Eagle Peak there is a large boulder that was once the site of an Indian workshop. There we found a large flake of obsidian, many small chips, spear-head of slate, and a hammer- stone of granite. Many small chips and flakes of obsidian were found scattered over the floor of the valley. In Indian Cave we found small pieces of obsidian and a hammer-stone, and some picture-writing that has been almost worn, burned and chipped off by people trying to get relics. It was marked on a boulder with red paint, and covers about six feet square.

Of the Indians there now we met several, and they still make some fine baskets. Old Lucy made us a papoose basket to carry our baby in. It was a problem as to how to get around with her. We tried carrying her in our arms, but after going to Mirror Lake and back we saw that would not do. First thought of using a blanket to sling her in, then a kind of a board to strap her on, then a nice piece of light bark, then the right idea came — to get an Indian basket. We saw Lucy about it. She would make one in three days for three dollars and a half, and it proved to be the most handy, useful thing we could have had — the only possible way in which one can carry a child with safety and have free use of the hands.

Over rocks, through brush, up trails and down ladders we carried the four-months child this way, the longest climb to Glacier Point, four miles, and a rise of three thousand feet. After three days' visit we returned by way of Nevada Falls, fifteen miles, which was the longest one-day trip. The child was always pleased to be tied in

SMALL THINGS IN THB YOSEMITE. 5 5

her basket, and never cried, except when hungry, many times having a good sleep while being carried.

We also got of the Indians some beotah, or acorn-meal mush. The acorns shelled, pounded to meal, the bitter leached out, and cooked in a basket, by putting hot stones in it, make a healthful food, which tastes good, with a rich underflavor of oil. There are inany fine elderberries. We, as well as the Indians, picked them. They were good to eat out of hand, or made into pie or pudding. But to us one of the strangest things to eat was the honey-dew, and the quantity was almost beyond belief.

In certain places it was on everything — seemed to come mostly (>flf the fir-trees, without the sign of aphides or anything else to produce it. The ground would be damp with it, the rocks wet, and the leaves of the low bushes under the firs shiny and thick. In many places it had turned to sugar in little drops on the ends of leaves. One had only to put a leaf of wild currant in the mouth to think they were eating black cur rant- jelly. The baby liked it, too, and would eat all we oflfered her. It was hard to think of little insects making it, there was so much and it was so clean. We looked carefully for some sign of Ufe, but could not find it; even on little trees a foot high, standing free from others in the open, the same sweetness would be found.

Of pine-sugar we got just a taste. This was from a sugar-pine near Glacier Point Hotel. This is a true manna, and Pinus Latn- bertiana is the only native tree, so far as I know, that produces it. We expected to get a lot, but there are only two trees on the floor of the valley large enough to have any, and they are not burned. It seems to come out best where the trees have been burned, so that there is a thick layer of charcoal for the sugar to come through. It the sap or pitch comes out with the sugar, it will be yellow and bitter, while if it strains through the charcoal, it is white and some- what the shape of well-popped corn, with a very pleasant flavor. I once found eleven ounces on one tree growing on San Jacinto Mountain, but never before nor since have I found more than two ounces at one time.

Of pine-gum we got a lot. This, to our taste, is the best to chew of any gum found in California. The place to find it is on the black pnies {Pinus Jeffreyi) that have been burned or heated enough to make the gum flow. One must be careful not to get pitch mixed with it. Boiled, or melted in water, poured out in cold water, and pulled like molasses candy, cut into pieces, it makes a very fine chewing gum. clean and wholesome.

We came very near seeing a bear — seemed as if we must run on to one, the tracks were so fresh. There are two or three living in the valley, which come to the camps at night to pick up food.

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We were not at all anxious to find one, especially when tangled up in fallen logs, brush and rocks, with a baby on our backs, with- out breath enough to say, "Good morning, Mr. Bear. This is your home, and we are going to tear out of here just as quick as we can."

There were wild-cat and deer tracks, and on the road from Wawona we saw two small deer. Many little chipmunks (Tamias) were living among the rocks. At Glacier Point Hotel they come on the table while people are eating, carrying off crackers and jumping into the butter. To us they are the cutest of little animals, some of them hardly larger than one's thumb, clean and lively.

Of the Douglas squirrel we saw only one, and it was so far away we could not get acquainted. A very few gray squirrels. Two lived near our camp, were quite busy animals, seemed to make it their business every day to get into the tops of the black oak trees and cut off the small branches that had acorns on them, at times coming down to carry a few away, making a little hole in the ground and putting an acorn into it. Once we saw one sitting on the ground gnawing a piece of soup-bone. Why they cut so many acorns off, leaving them on the ground, we could not make out.

We were much impressed by the scarcity of birds. While at Glacier Point we saw our first grouse. There were two — a mother and her chick — who lived around the hotel. When she first came near the hotel she had seven little ones, but had gradually lost all but one.

Near Eagle Peak we saw an old mountain quail and four young. There were eight Clark's crows, many pigeons, perhaps twenty in all, but that is many more than we had ever seen before anywhere, or all put together; a few robins, one blue heron and one cafion wren, blue-jays, some hawks, and two eagles ; a junco, two humming birds, and two ouzels ; only three carpenter woodpeckers, the bird we were most anxious to see. Not a tree nor a hole with an acorn in it ; a very few trees with old empty holes in them ; bushels of acorns, ripe and dropping, but not a bird working on them. I have found trees with fifty thousand holes in them, one-half of them filled with acorns. From the earliest dawn until late at night the birds would work, carrying the acorns from the oaks to the pines and cedars. In the night we would hear them make a certain kind of noise, with a great flapping of wings, just as though they had fallen off a limb, being so utterly tired out from work. And it was queer to see them catch winged ants as they came out of an old log after a rain. They would take them on the wing just like a fly- catcher. Then they have what we call woodpecker wells. In oak trees, when a limb has broken off and decayed so that there is a hole into the trunk six inches or so deep, this fills with water or sap, which is dark-colored but not bitter, and seems to be a favorite

SMALL THINGS IN THE. YOSEMITE. 57

drink with the carpenter. One will come and sip and drink and guzzle, hanging outside under the hole, just as though he was about drunk, until another one comes and pushes him away; then it will go through the same performance. In the Spring they need only stick their bills in, as the holes are overflowing, but as the summer advances they must go deeper and deeper down the well till they are all but out of sight. To us they are one of the most interesting birds, and why there are so few in the valley we could not account for.

Of course we went to Mirror Lake to see the sun rise. Got up at 4:15, had breakfast, and tore out for the lake. As we neared the mouth of Tenaiya Canon it seemed every minute as though the sun would pop over the top of Half Dome. We were in a fever of anxiety lest we should miss it after all. Got there all right, though, and had to wait two hours and five minutes, and while waiting had to build a fire to keep warm, for the sun rose at 9 :35. It truly was a fine thing to see the sun rising in the water two or three times, as one could make it do by walking a little ways. The color, the opalescent rays, the brightness of it all ! But what struck% us most — coming right home, as it were — was the baby's face. She was the first thing we looked at after the sun. We certainly were startled — thought something must have happened to her — her face the most intense purple, then it changed to gold. We looked at each other, and our faces were the same ; then it came to us that we were color-blind, or dazzled by looking so closely at the sun. It was the funniest thing. The fire had such spots of color. The pebbles were the intensest blue. I could not help picking some up to save, even knowing the color would not last. This illusion lasted some time, but gradually passed away.

Of the rocks there were plenty, the most immense blocks of granite, many of them like "turtle backs," upside down. They seem to rest on one of the smaller faces, so that they over-hang, and by leaning back against them the Indians must have had good homes.

On the north wall of the valley, just east of Indian Creek, is still a trace of glacial polish, the only place we found it on a wall. In the creek-beds above the Falls there are plenty, and some perfect pot-holes, big at bottom, little at top, six feet deep, and full of clean water. On the trail to Eagle Peak, one mile northwest of the rim of the valley, there is a fine balanced rock, four by six feet on top, thirty inches high, and flat as a table, which will rock up and down with a light pressure on the edge. This rock is one hundred feet north of the trail, and within plain sight.

And the snakes. We did not expect to find the track of one, much less to see them, old kinds and new ones. The gopher snake,

58 OUT WEST

■ Pityophis catenifer, one fine specimen and five eggs ; the first eggs we had ever seen, maybe laid by this snake, for they were in the same neighborhood, near the Indian Canon. The eggs were lying on a little mound of earth at the mouth of a ground-squirrel's hole. Four were stuck together and one was separate. They are one inch by two inches, white, with a tough skin like a turtle's egg. In each one was a little snake nine inches long, nicely marked. Two little rattlesnakes, Crotalus coniiuentus lucifer. We found one right under El Capitan. I was picking up gum at the foot of a pine tree, when the little rascal struck at me twice before I saw him, or could get my hand away, but each time falling short. He was only fifteen inches long, with one rattle, which he did not use until after striking, then my wife could hear it distinctly fifty feet away. He crawled under a stone, which I turned over, but could not see where he lay, as his markings were so exactly like the fresh broken granite rocks, black and white. Not until I touched him with a stick could 1 see him. We were mighty careful after that as to where we stepped or sat down, for we realized how easy it would be to step on one or even put our hands on it.

The second one we found while on the trail to Upper Yosemite Falls. He was curled up, half buried in the dust, at the edge of the trail. I saw him when about eight feet away, so do not know whether or not he would have struck at anyone passing. He was nineteen inches long, with two rattles, colored and marked like the first, gray and black, but was much easier to see. This was the first time I ever found a snake buried in the dust, though had often heard that rattlesnakes do it to keep warm.

On the same trip and trail, five hundred feet above the floor of the valley, we found the little coral snake, Elaps euryxanthus. This is a doubtful snake, for its cousin, Elaps fulvius (also called coral snake, American cobra and candy stick, of the southern Gulf States), is one of the six known poisonous snakes of the United States. The one we found was sixteen inches long, sharply marked with bands of black and light red, and, between, narrow bands of creamy white ; these three colors, glossy and clear, make it one of the most beauti- fully colored snakes in North America.

Three little garter snakes, Eutania elegans elegans. In handling one it left a very strong smell on my hands, an odor different than any other I have ever found, and one that was almost impossible to wash off.

One other little serpent, Diadolphus amahilis pulchellus, with no every-day name that I know of. They are full grown at fifteen inches, brown green, with black spots, beneath deep orange red — a harmless, pretty snake, but a fighter. The one we found was at the side of the road to Mirror Lake. He threw himself into a coil and striking many times, vibrated his tail, threshing about, ten times more than any rattlesnake, then all of a sudden jumped into a little hole and was gone.

We found eight snakes in all, and saw twenty-three fresh tracks, where they had just crossed the road, most of them near the mouth of Indian Canon.

It was an off-year for most kinds of cones. The spruce-trees were well loaded, and on the four-mile trail to Glacier Point were the most beautiful Douglas spruce — that is, for color, so rich and green,

SMALL THINGS IN THE YOSEMITB. $9

with a tint of yellow. One of these trees, growing near the medial moraine, is the largest tree of any kind that we found in the valley. It is twenty-seven feet eight inches in circumference, breast-high. At the top of Yosemite Falls and on Sentinel Dome are a few mountain pine, Pinus monticola, and some had cones full of seed. There are a very few sugar pine on the floor of the valley. They grow higher up about the rim, but among all we did not see over a dozen cones, and were not able to get a single one.

On the south road to the lower bridge there is one tree twenty- two feet four inches in circumference, breast-high, and on the same road, or rather near the branch which goes across the river ford, is the largest yellow pine (Pinus ponder osa) we have ever seen, twenty-five feet ten inches in circumference and two hundred and twenty-five feet high, with a forked top. The fork makes a good mark to find it by. Being so covered in by small trees it is hard to locate, even when right close up. Of Libocedrus dccurrens, the Incense Cedar, there are some very fine trees. The largest, twenty- five feet in circumference, is at Mr. Fiske's house.

The Incense Cedar is a favorite storehouse tree with the carpenter woodpecker, and the almost everlasting bark was used by the Indians for their houses, and is also very fine to use in making a picturesque camp, to cover the walls and roofs of cabins, around tents, or for screens of any kind.

A fir tree [Abies magniUca) growing about two miles north of Eagle Peak, on the trail, is twenty-four feet eight inches in circum- ference, breast-high. A mile from the top of Upper Yosemite Falls, near the creek, there are some juniper trees, Juniperus occidentalis. They are so short and stubby, so covered with fine yellow moss and lichens, almost more than they have of leaves, that it is worth the trip to see them.

We took one trip in a wagon, and only one, down the valley eight miles, near the Cascades, to see some False Nutmeg trees, Turnion Calif ornicum. These were the first we had ever seen, except two small ones in Golden Gate Park. Galen Clark knew just where to find them, and we were very glad to make the trip with him. He found the largest trees, and the finest fruits, and we got some good specimens of leaves and nuts. The largest tree is about two feet in diameter and thirty feet high. One must leave the stage and go to the south a little way to find the best trees.

On this trip Mr. Clark showed us his Claude Loraine Mirror, a most wonderful piece of glass, about ten inches square. One holds it up with his back to the view and then he sees the whole valley at once as in a picture, but so soft, so filled with the most delicate coloring, it is hard to believe there is not some enchantment about it.

It may seem trivial, a waste of time, and out of place, for us to have noticed all the little things, when there was so much without compare to be seen. I think, though, that we enjoyed the great things to the full. We could sense all and appreciate them better than if they were all that we could see.

The peaks and domes, the clifTs and waterfalls, the immensity of it all grew upon us day by day. All too soon we had to leave, but we are going back, as sure as the pine trees grow there, as sure as the waterfalls can say, "Kingdoms rise and kingdoms fall, but we fall on forever."

San Francisco.

6o

AN ARIZONA CUPID

By EDMUND VANCE COOKE. ISS CARROLL," said Richard Montgomery White, Third, "I have son\ething to say to you, something I have never yet — "

He hesitated a Httle despite his perfect poise, and the girl, who had gone a little white under her warm skin, recovered and broke in, a trifle nervously: "Dear me! I hope I haven't been doing anything very bad. You mustn't expect too much of me, you know. If I were to scold you in return, I think I'd have to tell you that while you are almost perfect here, you have one horrible failing. You insist on everybody's adopting the single Bostonian standard. Now when you visit Arizona, I'm afraid you will find us still voting for Billy Bryan and doing other shocking things. Oh, I've mixed that up horribly, haven't I ? But you know what I mean, and you are coming to Arizona, aren't you ?"

Mr. White listened with perfect politeness, but no sign of amuse- ment, and then said : "What I want to tell you, I have never yet told to any woman."

Again the girl broke in, this time with a roguish pretense of alarm. "Oh, Mr. White, I do hope it isn't one of those wicked man-stories with a swear-word in it. Please consider ! My chaperone isn't here. I wonder why they are called chaperones. Down in my country we would send the chaperones to the chaparral. But that's wasted on you, isn't it? You are so provincial. It's a good deal like saying 'Back to the woods' in Bostonese, but we don't have any woods — only chaparral, and pretty barren of that."

"Miss Carroll," persisted the young man, a trifle stiffly, "what I have to say is something no woman has a right to treat lightly."

The girl put out her hand with a little pleading gesture. "Forgive me. I am acting horrid. But you don't, you won't, understand."

Her hand rested between his fingers a moment and he said, a little bewildered: "You don't want me to say it?"

She withdrew her hand gently, and turned her face aside, shaking her head slightly. "Not now — not yet," her lips formed, but hardly uttered.

"But why?" he asked evenly. "I am not speaking hastily. I have carefully considered the matter. I have thought of what you have hinted, pardon me if I say rather flippantly, that we have been reared in different environments ; but after all, you know, Mr. Cham- berlain came to Massachusetts, Lord Curzon went to Chicago, and—"

"Oh, oh, oh !" cried the girl tensely, tears in her eyes and laughter on her lips, "Mr. White, I will not listen. You don't know me at all.

AN ARIZONA CUPID. 6i

but you think you do. I don't know you either, but I realize it. I have never seen you! If only you could be separated from your shell ! Hush !" She slipped over to the piano, and, fingering some music, said over her shoulder to the lady who entered : "Florence, Mr. White and I have been discussing ornithology. He has been studying my habitat through the curriculum furnished by Mr. Thomas's play, Mr. Cody's show and the jokes about Alkali Ike."

Mr. White looked politely blank. Mrs. Protheroe was smoothing her gloves over her shapely fingers. "Really, my dear," she said, "you accuse me of abstruseness sometimes, but you — "

"Why, don't you see?" said the g^rl gaily, entirely recovered. "The question is, Why do birds of a feather flock together?"

With this sally and a little meaning glance at him, Mr. Richard Montgomery White, Third, felt his suit set aside, and the three proceeded to Symphony Hall to enjoy the evening as best they might.

Richard Montgomery White had never seen America. "Richard Montgomery White, Third," he signed it, and he had added "of Boston" all his life. He frequently visited New York; he was familiar with the Maine coast; he had once gone as far south as Hampton Roads ; he knew the American legation in nearly every principal city of Europe — and these are the reasons he had never seen America.

But one day America had come to him. One day he had met her, and in meeting her had met it. One day his vision had been broad- ened marvelously, and he had discovered that z'\merica is not New England, with New York as a sort of a vermiform appendix, but that there are inhabited lands even beyond Ohio, Iowa and Omaha. While he was not quite certain whether Omaha had even been admitted into the Union, he knew there was such a place, because when he was in Bologna pursuing Guido Reni he had learned that two or three of the master's treasures were in Lininger's collection in Omaha.

But had he been told, even then, that there was another place a thousand miles west and south of Omaha, where if old masters did not flourish new masters did — aye, and new mistresses too (mis- tresses in the fine old romantic sense), and that he — he, Richard Montgomery White, Third — was to give up his heart to a girl born and brought up in "the desert" of Arizona, he would have politely begged your pardon. Other men, born "out West" (perhaps as far as Pittsburg), might have laughed you to scorn, but Mr. Richard Montgomery White, Third, would have politely ignored your re- mark, or have begged pardon for diflFering.

Nevertheless you would have been right and Mr. White wrong, which he would never have discovered if the Arizona thermometer

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were not in the habit of boiling the mercury all through the long summer. It happened, therefore, that Miss Carroll spent a summer in New England, and Montgomery, as a few, a very few, were privi- leged to call him, found that New England was an absurdly small place. Whether he sought the aristocratic regions of Newport, the democratic delights of Old Orchard, the exaltation of the White Mountains or the calm of Concord, where he was, there was she also. Then he discovered another thing. The meetings were by design. Furthermore, he was the designer.

Montgomery took himself apart and talked to himself. It was a confidential conversation and can hardly be reported verbatim, but it is generally believed that Mr. White asked himself what his inten- tions were. After which occurred the conversation with Miss Cal- roll already reported.

It took some time, after Miss Carroll returned to her home, for Montgomery to conceive the idea that he would discover America. Then, like Columbus before him, he resolutely set his face towards the terrors of the unknown West. To make the exploration as thorough as possible, he went by the northern route, travelled "the Coast" from Seattle to San Diego, and started back via the southern. In that way he sought to disguise from himself the real objective point of his trip. But though there were a dozen conventional rea- sons why he should stop at Salt Lake, Portland, San Francisco, Los Angeles, etc., he had to force himself to get off the trains, but found no difficulty in prevailing upon himself to stop at Maricopa. And what is there at Maricopa ? Nothing at all.

The Sunset Limited dumped him off in the chill dark of the small hours, when the blood flows sluggishly, and the connecting train for Phoenix was not even open for two or three hours. He looked at the black sky in which the stars blazed brighter than he had ever seen them, at the wide, weird desert, empty and desolate, at the little group of buildings huddled around the station, and then he thought of her, with a touch of dismay, and asked himself, "Is it possible?"

But when the train rolled into Phoenix by daylight and he was met at the station by a trim young lady who looked as fresh as the radiant morning, driving an eager-to-go horse attached to a stylish trap, his soul sang in a different key. True, Montgomery White's nature was not given to exuberance and the song never got from his soul to his lips, but he must have been cold indeed not to have felt the exhilaration of the short spin up the broad street to the "Adams."

"I'm going to leave you at the hotel now, because I know you want your bath and your coffee," she said. "Then, if you have nothing better to do, Mr. Marley and I will pick you up about ten and show you how the Salt River valley looks from his Mercedes.

AN ARIZONA CUPID. 63

In the afternoon wd can play a little golf at the Country Club if you like. You can't do that in Boston in mid-winter very often, can you? There's a visitor's card waiting for you there, and Mr. Marley wants the pleasure of introducing you at the Maricopa Club. Mama wants you at dinner at six-thirty; just a small affair — Uncle Robert, the Lessings, Mr. Marley and one or two intimates. We don't want to tire you.''

Montgomery swallowed part of his surprise, but the rest found utterance. **Good Lord, Miss Carroll, what have we after dinner? Grand opera?"

Miss Carroll laughed. "Oh, I don't deny that we're putting our best foot forward. Does ten o'clock suit you ?"

"I'm ready now," said the young man, "and I'm very sure I much prefer your horse to the best motor which ever punctured a tire."

"Oh, but I promised to save you for Sam — Mr. Marley. He'd be awfully disappointed. We'll drive some other time, if you like."

"Do with me as you will," murmured the young man, yielding the point politely. "I wouldn't disarrange your plans,"

A little later, when Marley swung his car around to the entrance of the Adams and the two men met, Montgomery raised his hat and murmured, "Glad to meet you, I'm sure," while Marley cried heartily: "Heard so much about you, seems as if I'd known you always ! Now you climb in with Bert, and don't pay any attention to me, except to punch me to go faster or slower, or to give me directions if you have any. I know you're dying for a visit with Bert — I was, when she got back from Boston — and you and I can swap lies later. For the next two hours I'm nothing but the choofer."

Despite, or perhaps because of, Marley's attitude, Montgomery had a distinctly uncomfortable feeling. "How sure he must be !" he thought to himself, "and what a way he has with him ! Sort of a masculine gender to her own. 'Birds of a feather.' Good Lord, was that what she meant ? I wonder why I cannot be like that !"

At the end of the spin, Mr. White begged to be allowed to be host at luncheon, but Miss Carroll demurred. "Just drop me off at the house and you men go on. If you want me to play golf this afternoon you must give me time to change my skirt."

"I say, Mr. Marley," said Montgomery, nervously, after Miss Carroll had disappeared, "I'm sure I beg your pardon for a very absurd question, but you can have no idea how it bothers me."

"Out with it !" urged Marley.

"Well, you know, I ought to be ashamed of myself, but I under- stand we are to dine at the Carrolls, and — and — well, do we dress for dinner?"

Marley laughed frankly, and then, lowering his voice in mock confidence, he said, "My friend, you have come to the right man.

6+ OUT wnsi

When I came here five years ago I came on a hurry-call, and what I didn't know about the Southwest would have filled the famous library in your town. I packed in a hurry, and about the last thing I did was to throw my dress-suit to my room-mate (he was about my size), never expecting to see one again. First thing after I got here I got a bid to some function or other, and they told me I could wear buckskin if I liked. I suppose I could have, but there were ninety-eight men there that night, and ninety-seven of 'em wore the most irreproachable evening dress. Gee ! there wasn't even a wing-collar. You can imagine how the ninety-eighth man felt."

The visitor could not help but admire the good-natured tact of the explanation. "Mr. Marley," he said, after a pause, "you're a very good fellow, and you're going to do me so many kindnesses, give me a card to your club, and all that. Miss Carroll told me. 1 want to be decent to you. I think I ought to tell you that I'm here to win, if I can."

"You're a square sport," cried Marley, "and I like you. I'm free to say that you have a chance — oh, a very good chance; but now that you've put it up to me, I don't mind telling you I'll try to make you run second. But you may be sure of a fair deal, as far as I'm concerned, and if you win, you'll find me a good loser. I don't want any girl, not even Bert Carroll, if she wants some- body else."

"You mean Miss Carroll," corrected the Easterner, offering his hand, which Marley grabbed emphatically. There was a tacit truce for the afternoon, but in the evening the war was on.

Montgomery suddenly realized that he was anxious to make a good impression upon Miss Carroll's friends and family, and he marveled at it a little. He exerted himself to be agreeable to every- one, from Miss Carroll's well-bred fox-terrier. Gyp, to Miss Car- roll's well-fed Uncle Hubert.

"So you're new to Arizona," that important man was saying, fixing his small shrewd eyes on the visitor. "Now, I'll bet you never saw such a climate as this in Boston."

"The climate is wonderful," acceded Montgomery.

"Rather beats your east winds, don't it? Ever see five crops of alfalfa in a year in Boston?" inquired Uncle Hubert, waving a fat hand.

"I'm quite sure I never did. I don't believe Boston goes in much for alfalfa."

"Do you know that the finest oranges in the world grow right here in this valley?"

"I didn't, but I know it now," said Montgomery, urbanely.

"More mineral wealth in this territory than any other parcel of land in the world, when it's developed."

AN ARIZONA CUPID. 6^

"Mr. White," put in a guest, "you ought to be warned that Carroll is a professional Arizonian. He's only happy when he's proving the entire inferiority of the rest of the world."

But Hubert Carroll, or "Hub," as he was generally called, was of a type which is in every community, and was not to be deterred. "Ain't I right?" he demanded. "H I ain't, tell me just one thing, just one thing, Mr. White, that you got back East which compares with what we've got."

"Nothing at all," smiled Montgomery, "unless it is the habit of allowing people to find out our good qualities for themselves."

A little ripple of laughter went around, and Hub Carroll's large, round face went red, but he returned to the attack. "You think you've got trees, but we've got trees turned into jewels, in the petrified forest. You think you've got hills, but we could lose the whole outfit in the Grand Canon. Birds, too. You think you've got birds back East, but we'll show you some real birds one of these days."

"Birds of a feather, I'm afraid," murmured Miss Carroll in Mont- gomery's ear.

"What's that, Bertie?" demanded the uncle, noting the arch glance, and not half pleased.

"Just quoting the old proverb, Uncle, about the birds of a feather flocking together."

"Sometimes they don't. There's Abou Ben Ezra," said her uncle, shortly but jocularly, and lapsed into silence.

It seemed a lame conclusion to the man from Boston, but the entire little company was too well satisfied with having side-tracked Mr. Carroll's Arizonianism, and plunged into other subjects.

Montgomery, however, was conscious that he had not scored very heavily with the head of the Carrolls. A week passed, and he failed to see that he was making any progress with the most important of the Carrolls, either. More than once he had essayed the subject which haunted his heart; essayed it calmly and deliberately, and always she had evaded his carefully prepared attack. "One of these days," he said to himself, "that bluff chap Marley will pick her up in his good-humored way, pack her in his motor and carry her off to the minister's before she knows it."

He consoled himself, however, with the thought that the catas- trophe would not occur that morning, at any rate, for Gyp came tearing into the Adams' lobby, where he sat, leaping upon him and licking his hands.

"Gyp," whispered the young man, whimsically, "where thou art there she must be also. Lead on ! I'll follow thee."

Miss Carroll's trap stood before the post office, a short block

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away, and Montgomery played his lead boldly. "Is this the morn- ing you are to give me that promised drive ?"

"This is the morning," accepted the girl, "and I can also redeem uncle's promise at the same time. I'll show you the birds."

"Of your uncle's feather?" asked the young man, grimly, taking the reins as she moved over.

"They're all uncle's feathers," laughed the girl.

He did not understand the retort and did not care. It was enough to be alone with her, behind a willing horse, on a good road, coursing briskly away from the morning sun. Far past the out- skirts of the little city they rode, saying little, but possibly feeling the more. Gyp was the animation of the party, now far ahead, now lagging behind a little, now dashing for a meadow-lark on a sprouting fence-post, or barking loudly for pure joy of living.

"Yes, you have quite a variety of birds," the young man was saying lazily, "especially as you haven't any foliage to speak of, except cotton-woods. Have you ever noticed how many more va- rieties there are around us, if you watch close, than the average mortal conceives? Gyp seems to find some which we don't, too."

"Oh, I forgot Gyp," exclaimed the girl, suddenly. "What shall we do with Gyp?"

"What do you mean?"

"Why, we're going to uncle's farm, and dogs aren't allowed."

"Dogs debarred from a farm? Most extraordinary. What's the chief product of your uncle's farm ? Pussy-cats ?"

"No, birds. Haven't we told you ? B-i-r-d-s."

"But, bless us, the birds won't bite him. And he can't catch them."

"Wait a minute," laughed the girl. "It's a shame to mystify you with so simple a conundrum." They came to a slight rise in the ground and the girl pointed. There, sure enough, were birds, birds seven or eight feet tall, hundreds of them."

"Most extraordinary!" said Montgomery. "Surely you have not bewitched me all the way to Africa."

"Only to uncle's ostrich farm, of which he is inordinately proud."

"And Gyp?"

"The birds are afraid of dogs. One little Gyp may stampede a whole herd."

"A little terrier like Gyp? Why, I thought an ostrich could kill a man with a stroke of his — er, which is it, a hoof or a claw?"

"So he can, or so I'm told. But he has to strike straight from the shoulder, so to speak. He can't kick downwards, so anything as close to the ground as Gyp puts him in a panic. Foolish, isn't he?"

AN ARIZONA CUPID. 67

"Foolish as a man in love. Afraid of he knows not what."

"I'd like to see you in a panic just once," said the girl, with seemingly causeless vexation. "You're always so dead calm."

Before the young man could express his well-controlled sur- prise she touched the reins. "I know what we'll do. We'll tie here and Gyp will guard the horse. He will do that all day as faithful as "

"As what?" asked the young man.

"As a dog," said the girl. "There is no other comparison. Come ! we'll walk across the farm to the house. It will give me a chance to show it to you. You see it's all fenced off into large pens."

"Pens? Apartments, you mean, and a happy pair in each flat. What a gallant man your uncle must be."

"Gallant? Oh, yes, to ostriches. Did you know that ostriches choose their own mates out of the herd ? But women ! he thinks they ought to mate as their rich uncles direct."

"Ah!" said the man, jealously, " 'Birds of a feather' is his motto, then. But what do beautiful nieces think of the plans of rich uncles ?"

"Beautiful nieces," quoted the girl, gaily, "are as difficult to manage as Abou Ben Ezra, and show as hateful a temper."

"Your uncle's riddle again."

"One of the birds," exclaimed the girl. "A handsome fellow, but he fights every living thing which comes within sight of him. He's even so ugly he abuses his wife, so he usually is made to flock by himself."

"Poor devil!" sighed Montgomery, dolorously.

Thus they chattered and walked, and Montgomery told himself he had never been so truly happy before. The polished blue of the sky, the dark green of the alfalfa, the warmth of the air, the hint of remoteness from customary civilization given by the big bipeds, and, above all, the solitude — solitude with one another, which is the sort worth having — brought a bubbling joy into his heart. Through his mind there ran the lilt of Frederick's song, from Mignon, capering care-free. Then he became aware that the girl's clear contralto had burst softly into the same melody which was thrumming through his mind. He uttered a little cry of suppressed enthusiasm at the coincidence and joined in the song. She looked at him questioningly, but somehow he did not care to break the harmony with words, and she seemed to understand. Then, while the spell was yet on them, he took off his hat and touched her hand, as if to attract her attention. She did not pretend to misunderstand, but breathed a soft little sigh and put away the moment. "Come," she said, "it is getting far into the morning. Let us cut through this empty corral on the way to the house."

68 CUT WEST

"Oh, my prophetic soul, your uncle !" groaned Montgomery.

They were a third of the way across the corral, perhaps, when the girl gave a cry of alarm. "Abou !"

Montgomery looked. Up from somewhere flashed the black and white of a huge male ostrich. Doubtless he had been resting quietly in some corner, and his motionless body had blended into the field in the unconsciously cunning way which nature has contrived for all hunted creatures. Angrily the monstrous bird dropped into its posture of challenge, squatting, ruffling his plumes, his head de- scribing a raging arc from side to side, lashing himself, as it were, preparatory to the charge.

Montgomery's first emotion was of delight, as the girl's rounded body swayed close to his and the perfume of her hair brushed his face. His second sensation was of interest in the spectacular prep- arations of the bird, and his third was of genuine alarm. To look at the silly face and sapling neck of an ostrich through a wire screen- ing is one thing. To be caged in a corral face to face with a three- hundred-pound catapult which can move like an express-train and strike a blow like a pile-driver is another. Not a way to escape! Not a weapon of any sort within reach ! To run were folly ; to fight were fatal !

For a second they stood like victims in an ancient amphitheater, awaiting the rush of their destroyer. Then two warm arms went around his neck, two soft lips went straight to his. The ostrich was coming.

Montgomery closed his arms and his eyes and laughed low and delightedly. Then, in the moment of his intoxication, he had an inspiration. "Sweetheart — the dog — what you told me — down — down !"

Half comprehending, half forced, the girl slipped prone upon, or rather into, the alfalfa, and her lover flung himself beside her, just as the ostrich struck, but struck above them.

"It worked!" ejaculated Montgomery; "it worked!" He slipped his hand toward hers.

"No, no," put your face down and put your arms over youi neck."

"I'd rather put them around yours," complained the young man, but followed her example. "What's all this for?"

"Rich !" came in a smothered voice from, the alfalfa. "Did you ever see anything as good as this in Boston?"

"Oo!" answered Montgomery, irrelevantly. "The villain stepped on me !" For the baffled ostrich, after angrily circling around, was deliberately trying the effect of his three hundred pounds upon his victims, and his horny toe was far from comfortable, even through clothing.

"Keep your head and neck covered," warned the girl again.

Montgomery wriggled around until his head was toward hers, each head fitting into the other's shoulder. "I file an improvement on your patent. This way I can cover my head and your own, too. Ugh ! that brute of a bird is sitting on me."

AN ARIZONA CUPID. 69

The girl moved her cheek gently so that it rubbed against his. "Do you mind it much?" she whispered.

"Sweetheart," came the answer, passionately, "I mind nothing under the heavens or in the earth, now or forever, except that you are mine and I am yours, and I am with you."

The girl closed her eyes and the lids trembled. Her lips were parted, her cheeks softly flushed. Suddenly she turned her face away from him. "Oh, glory," she breathed to herself. "He is awake !"

Montgomery raised his head and shoulders and came down with his face to hers. "Don't raise your head up like that!" panted the girl. "He'll kill you !"

"Then don't you turn your face away," he commanded master- fully.

She closed her eyes aagin, her lips trembling. Montgomery im- proved the opportunity. "Dearest," he said, "you said you wanted to see me in a panic. Well, I'm afraid."

"Of what?"

"Afraid the reptile will go away and that this may end."

The girl laughed delightedly. "Oh, Montgomery, who would ever have thought that you, you, could be so loveably ridiculous !" Then, changing her tone, she said, "Can you eat alfalfa? It's the bird's regular diet, but I'm getting hungry."

"Gad ! so's the ostrich," retorted the young man. "He's pecking at my hand. Is — is his bite dangerous?"

The girl shook with laughter. "About as much as a goose's. It's your ring. He's trying to get your diamond."

"Bertha!" shouted the young man. "I've got him. Get up and run !" The ostrich had pecked aagin, and Montgomery had flashed his hands up and seized the long, sinuous neck. The huge biped was powerless.

The girl stood not upon the order of her going. "I'll send some help," she called back.

"Not from your uncle," growled the young man, struck with another idea.

Fishing out his handkerchief and holding the neck firmly in one hand, he whirled the linen around the eyes of the bird with the other, then seized the ends and tied them. A blinded ostrich is as docile as a kitten. Perhaps Montgomery did not know this, as he gave the neck a final vicious tug, which sent the big bird somer- saulting over him.

When they were outside the corral the girl looked at him with flushed cheeks and shining eyes. "Don't you dare to laugh !" she warned, and then they both shouted and swayed.

By a mutual impulse they retraced their steps toward the horses. Gyp leaped up as they approached, his tail wig-wagging signals of welcome and congratulation. "Here's your new master, Gyp," said the man, stooping to pet him. "I wonder what uncle will think when he finds that hooded ostrich."

"Isn't there a tradition somewhere of a blind and winged god who sometimes brings true lovers together?" asked the girl, de- murely,

Montgomery held his sides again. "Abou Ben Ezra and the little winged Cupid! Birds of a jfeatherj"

Cleveland, O.

70

A TOUCH or NATURE,

By EUGENE MAN LOVE RHODES. ILLY BEEBE, '00 of Harvard, taking his ease at his inn — or, at least, in the terraced gardens that were its chiefest charm — was extremely well pleased with him- self, life, the world, and the pleasant places thereof where now his lines were cast. Thus far he had won on his Wander-year; but the lure of Arizona suns held him thrall — Circe-charmed, lulled and lapped with warmth and quiet restfulness.

There was good red blood in the boy, despite a certain erro- neous superiority. It stirred to the call of these splendid horizons. The mysterious desert scoffed and questioned, drew him with promise of strange joys and strange griefs. The iron-hard moun- tains beckoned and challenged from afar, wove him their spells of wavering lights and shadows; the misty warp and woof of them shifting to swift fantastic hues of trembling rose and blue and violet, half-veiling, half-revealing, steeps unguessed and dreamed-of sheltered valleys — and all the myriad-voice of moaning waste and world-rimming hill cried "Come!"

Faint, fitful undertone of drowsy chords, far pealing of elfin bells ; that was pulsing of busy acequias, tinkling of mimic water- falls. The clean breath of the desert crooned by, bearing a grate- ful fragrance of apple-blossoms ; rippled the deepest green of alfalfa to undulating sheen of purple and flashing gold. The broad fields were dwarfed to play-garden prettiness by the vastness of over- whelming desert, to right, to left, before; whose nearer blotches of black and gray and brown faded, far off, to a nameless shimmer, its silent leagues dwindling to immeasurable blur, merging indis- tinguishable in the burning sunset. "East by up," overguarding the Oasis, the colossal bulk of Rainbow walled out the world with grim-tiered cliffs, cleft only by the deep-gashed near gates of Rainbow Pass, where the swift river broke through to rich fields of Rainbow's End, bring in a fulfillment of the fabled pot of gold. Below, the whilom channel wandered forlorn — Rainbow no longer, but Lost River — to a disconsolate delta, waterless save as infrequent floods found turbulent way to the Sink, when wild horse and antelope revisited their old haunts for the tender green luxury of these brief, belated springs.

Billy had eyes to see and ears to hear. But, alas, as too often, he felt called upon to instructive prophecy. Giving sway to the master-muscle, things temporal faded before the glory of things spiritual. Deep in mid-harangue of didactic eloquence he cor- ruscated, to the much edification of his sole auditor, John Wesley Pringle, tough battered veteran of Lost Legions, who hung on

A TOUCH OF NATURE. 71

his sonorous periods with ill-concealed admiration and unfeigned inner delight.

Having safely conducted the Pilgrim Fathers to Leyden and to Massachusetts ("thus twice-sifted from England's best," said Billy), he rigorously sifted their sons in turn, led them forth to the sacred soil of Bleeding Kansas, spotted them, so to speak, and went back after his cavalry. His breast swelled visibly as he began his peroration. Wes' leaned forward eagerly to drink in his wisdoms.

"The first settlers of the South were largely of England's gentle blood, with a liberal sprinkling of Scotch and Scotch-Irish. To Georgia and the Carolinas came also thousands of the best blood of France — the Huguenots. There has been comparatively little immigration from Europe, but they have quickly extended their empire westward in a slower stream, parallel to, but distinct from, the more impetuous tide of Northern civilization. This stream is now overflowing from the Lone Star State, meeting here the more energetic branch as it pours through the Northern Gates and recoils from the Pacific. They cannot choose but mingle. The Long Trail is ended. This is the Last Frontier. Here, under the most favorable auspices, alike removed from the frozen North and the languid South, the blood of Puritan and Vavalier, Hugue- not and Conquistador, Blue and Gray, will merge at last into one unbroken tide. Who can say if the New Type here may not com- bine their differing ideals into something better than each or all? Will you coincide with me, Mr. Prindle?"

Pringle hesitated, blank-eyed. "Why — I — " Then his face shone with pleased comprehension. "Yes, thank you, I don't care if I do." He rose briskly.

The incredulous collegian eyed him with painful distrust. But Pringle's expression was so brightly innocent, so gravely matter- of-fact, that Billy dismissed suspicion as unworthy. His good heart sparing his unlettered companion the humiliation of enlighten- ment, he led the way.

Returning, Pringle's gaze followed the winding contours of the Pass till they were lost in the mazy, blue-black hills above the Rim-rock. "Up there," he said, jerking his chin to indicate the direction of his thought, "up there, now, is your chance to behold them millenial the'rys of yourn in action. On Tip-top you may witness the hardy pioneers, no two from the same state prior (barrin' Texas, of course) lyin' together in social unanimity. You side me to Old Man Baker's manana. He's one of them very Pilgrim Grandsons, from that dear Wyandotte, Kansas. Come up and stay as long as you like. Besides observin' your fellow man

It OUT WEST

in the int'rests of science, there's bronc's to break, bear, deer and wild turkey a-plenty, and the round-up starts next week."

Rainbow, looming gigantically in the deepening twilight, reiter- ated the invitation. "By George!" said Beebe with youthful en- thusiasm, "I'll go you ! Of course, I'll pay all expenses."

"Of course," returned Pringle, severely, "that is the very only, one, identical, exact thing you precisely will not emphatically do.

Once you leave the railroad, this country's pretty like the King- dom Come in one respect — it's easier for a camel to go through the knee of an idol than for a rich man to make good with certified checks. If you want to, you can pay for a buckboard to carry your buns, sleepin'-bags, kodaks and other saturnalias up to Baker's. You and me'll mosey up the trail on cross-saddles, the wagon road bein' some on the architect'ral plan of a twisted corkscrew. And you leave that there check-book of yourn behind, travellin' solely on your personal pulchritood and beauties of character. Subsidizin' any denizen of these woodland wilds would be interestin' indeed, but imprudent. The most lib'ral and gratooitous tippin' will not endear you to the poor but haughty mountaineer. He might like enough hold you up with a gun if it occurred to him fav'rable, but a tip he esteems degradin' — and resents as such; his ways of evincin' displeasure bein', moreover, versatile, hasty and surprisin'."

"You spoke of your neighbors as being from many different sec- tions," said Billy. "Have they, in any measure, reconciled their political differences yet ?"

"Not a bit !" Pringle shook his head in vigorous dissent. "All democrats."

Billy gave way to mirth.

"Of what section are you, yourself, Mr. Pringle ?"

"I'm but a stranger here," said Pringle, pensively. "Heaven is my home. But if you want to pin me right down to particulars, you might say I was an American. In a way,, that's some narrer-con- tracted. Of course, I'm really part of all this here." He turned a friendly eye where the desert stars burned warm and near and won- derful, including them in comprehensive gesture. "And interested in all adjacent parts, like the old farmer who allowed he weren't no land-hog — all he wanted was just what j'ined his'n. An American. It's a good big word, as words go. Well, I got to write some letters and then go bye-bye. Good-night. We start in the mawnin'."

Billy appeared in the morning canonically attired for roughing it, with careful observance of the best traditions of Naughty-Naughty. A flannel shirt, grandly, beautifully, riotously new-blue ; a gay ker- chief, knotted Byronically ; fringed flaunting buckskin gauntlets ; bright new double-decker belt and buttoned holster; riding-breeches of immaculate khaki ; be-laced leggings and dainty spurs ; the whole

TOUCH OF NATURE. 7$

amazing edifice surmounted by a stiff, white sombrero, symmetrically dented.

Pringle permitted himself one discreet glance, and mounted in silence. As they rounded the plasa he pricked a questioning thumb at the sombrero.

"Catholic?" he asked, with lifting brows.

"Catholic ?" echoed the Easterner, puzzled. "Me ? I don't under- stand."

"Them four dints," explained his genial cicerone, "outlines a cross, and denotes that the incumbent is addicted to Orthodoxy, Con- servatism and other forms of inertia. If your sentiments is other- wise, you wear it creased down the middle, so-fashion."

"I am to infer, then, that you are a Radical?"

"We-ell, no — not exactly," said Pringle judicially. "You see, I got two hats. When I go to the county-seat, now, I wear the dinted one — and an extry gun."

"I had no idea there was any significance in the fashion," said Beebe.

"There's meanin' to most things — in this country at least. Chaps, taps, bridles and spurs all helps you place folks. If a man, not left- handed, coils his rope at the left side of his saddle-horn, he's a bronco-buster more'n a puncher. Center-fire saddle spells Califor- nia; double-cinch, Texas for choice. And if you wear a criminal negligee shirt" — he regarded the rim-rock with steadfast non-com- mittal eye — "it proclaims the — "

"Tenderfoot?" interrupted Billy, flushing.

"Well" — Pringle hesitated — "at least that you're from 'way east of any point due west of you."

Billy reverted to politics.

"You are a philosopher rather than a partisan, it seems," hinted the Conservative.

"Once," said Pringle, "I cherished certain fallacies tremendous. Men was just two kinds. One side was scoundrels, traitors, bigots and hypocrites. T'other kind was all Heroes, Patriots, Martyrs and Reformers. Them last was my side. 'Twas a exhileratin', untrou- bled state of mind, but some transient and half wrong. Either half. Them tranquil and innocent days is long departed. I now say with the poet, 'I care not who makes the laws of a nation, so you let me name the Supreme Court.' Nigh fifty years old, I am. The words we use for praise or blame is just only denominators to me, and man is a fraction, complex and improper, with his numerators varyin' from day to day accordin' to his boots or digestion, weather, luck, temptation, need and opportunity. Which moderate judgements are not much shared by my neighbors on Tip-Top. They holds decided conclusions on all subjects, includin' each other, which they

74 OUT W EST

looks down on mootual as Kansas nesters, Texas outlaws or Kain- tucky aristocrats, and deports themselves accordin'."

"Have they intermarried much?" queried Billy thoughtfully.

"No woman has ever yet set foot in them peacefulprecincts," said Pringle. "You might put up a sign in the Gap, 'Who enters here leaves soap behind.' "

"Ah !" said the vindicated theorist, much elated. "That explains it. Without the softening influence of womankind you cannot expect them to harmonize."

"There is one subject," said Pringle, "on which their harmony is such as to drown all other noises. The East. The Effete East. The Robber East — with special animosities to New York, Tammany Hall and Wall Street. They likewise deplores and resents that dear Cleveland, Ohio, by reason she didn't change her name during the late eighties or early nineties."

Billy reined up and fumbled at his saddle-bags. "Trick me no more, simple yeoman," he said, with a cheerful grin at the perfidious Pringle. "I perceive with sorrow that you are less fool than knave. I was a stranger and you took me in. The schoolman's sufficiency, that unaccountable self-esteem which departs not from the wayfaring man, though you bray him in a mortar, left me defenseless against your plausible imbecility. Nature has happily adapted you for the part. Let us coincide once more. I give you a toast. 'My ears! Long may they wave !' Drink, you untravelled yokel, drink !"

Pringle twisted the flask cover. "I jine you in this here fraternal pledge without abatement of them previous warnin's. Them Rain- bow-chasers does sure cling to them aforesaid opinions, rabid. And I'm free to admit," he continued, reflectively, "that they urge them acrimonious convictions with that force and superfluency as 'twould surprise you, and a namin' of known facts not to be eluded. I shares them views myself, partial, and with mitigatin' circum- stances." He looked around apprehensively.

"Can you keep a secret?" he demanded, in a cautious whisper. "I want to confide one of my youthful indiscretions to you. I was bom in New York, myself. But 'twas a long time ago, and I've always tried to lead a better life. Of course, I wouldn't want it to get out. If Baker knowed it, he'd likely bar me from the wagon."

"What ! Don't you live at Baker's ?"

"Me? Shucks, no. I live fif-teen consecutive miles further on."

"Why!" gasped Billy, open-eyed. "You invited me up there! I naturally supposed — "

Pringle hastened to reassure him. "That's all right, Billy. I can't just explain Rainbow to you, off-hand, but them actions of mine, when I says, 'Come along, son, 'la casa es suya', fits in with our ways of thinkin', and is, as you may say, o fay and O. K. I've

A TOUCH OF NATURE. 75

done presented you with the freedom of Rainbow. Bein' as Baker's got way the best house and trimmin's, you go there first, natural. The boys is good boys, spite of them triflin' eediosincrasies I men- tioned. They ain't really got no manners, but their hearts is located proper, and there ain't a selfish drop of blood in 'em. They'll show you a good time — a heap better time'n you could show them in civil- ized communities where an tn-vite is just airy pers'flage unless legibly endorsed by the wife or other head of the house, and is so treated. We have our faults in Rainbow and New York respective — but I've seen 'em both, and my opinion is like what the school boy said about brains — 'The cerebrum is composed of gray and black matter and the antebellum just the reverse.' We quit the road here and hit the cut-oflf."

They zig-zagged the dizzy trail over High-roll, pausing at the top for a last view of the desert, down through the scraggly cedars, with a side-trip to see the river plunge through its rock-walled "Dalles" — a stupendous chasm, in whose sunless depths the Rain- bow foamed a thousand feet below. Then came the rolling pine- country, with intervening valleys and winding shaded trails, where presently, at a sudden bend, they encountered three brisk-jogging horsemen.

The foremost got his horse back on his haunches, twisted in the saddle, and called gravely to his companions.

" 'Toves,' " he announced, " 'Are something like lobsters — they're something like badgers — and they're something like corkscrews.' "

"Ridin' with a roll ?" queried the second, pleasantly.

Pringle held up a deprecatory hand.

"Guest — hosts. Hosts — guest,' he said hastily. "Mr. William Beebe, of Cleveland, Ohio. Billy, the big, noisy, red-mustached gentleman is Wade Owens of old Kaintuck, known as Headlight; the bow-legged one is Aforesaid Nathaniel Smith, and the stubby patriarch bringin' up the rear is Baker himself. Speakin' of cork- screws — "

Making libation, they gave Billy grave welcome to Rainbow. "We was goin' down to see the sights," said Aforesaid, with invidious intent. "But I reckon it ain't necessary, now. Back we go."

The Rainbow-chasers proceeded to make Billy at home without delay, the rites of hospitality much on the lines followed by the famed Gridiron Club. Gleefully they fell upon him, jointly and severally, on the ground that he was a New Yorker, ignoring his protests that Cleveland was really not a suburb of the larger city. Gently, but firmly, they expressed their candid disapproval and renunciation of the East and all its works ; predatory wealth, banks and bankers, railroads, rebates, injunctions, trusts, Robber Tariff, campaign funds, life-insurance companies. Standard Oil, bribery,

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Pirates of Industry, High Finance, corners, stocks, bonds, brokers, and promoters; incidentally, the kindred subjects of golf, lobbies, graft, Christian Science, patent medicine, doctors, dukes, interna- tional marriages, divorce, snobocracy, Race Suicide, nature-fakirs, spats, Boston-terrier mustaches and hazing, football, strikes, yellow journals, sky-scrapers, slums, automobiles, climate, latitude and longitude. These last were minor grievances, however. Always the conversation circled back to the black sheep, the idle rich, the dishonest plutocrats, the iron heel of the oppressor grinding down the faces of the poor, while Pringle egged on both sides with dis- passionate impartiality.

"Aw, stop chewin' the rag," he said at last. "Le's climb up on Thumb Butte to noon. Mr. Beebe can get the lay of the country from there. What time is it ?"

"Eleven-thirty ; not quite," Headlight responded, squinting at the sun.

"Eleven-twenty-five," announced Billy, snapping his watch.

"My head is good as most people's watches," said the Kentuckian, in unguarded boasting.

"Maybe that's the wheels," suggested Aforesaid, blandly.

"Well, I ain't got no roulette wheels on the brain, anyhow," retorted Headlight promptly.

"That's right, that's right. When honest men fall out, the rest of us gets a little peace. You side me, Billy. / ain't snuffin' over your tainted money," said Pringle kindly. "You can't help it."

"We don't mean nothin' but a little fun, Mr. Beebe," said Baker. "Just putting you through the First Degree a lot. Not but these things is facts. You try this simple rough life awhile and you'll see how hopelessly wrong all these robber-rich looks to self-respect- ing toil. Your millionaires perpetrate outrages under cover of the law that honest hard-working men'd scorn to do."

Cliff -walled on three sides. Thumb Butte commanded the whole Tip-top country. Unsaddling at its outmost verge, they hobbled the horses, and, in default of lunch, proceeded to explain the topog- raphy.

Straight ahead, twenty miles off, was Baker's place, at the head of the main caiion. He gave the 13 brand, the Baker's Dozen. The N8 ranch was beyond the sugar-loaf "gyp" knoll, southward. "I'll take you over tomorrow," said Aforesaid. Owens lived closer by, in the rolling hills to the left of Rainbow River. The broken mesa beyond was Prairie Mountain ; the ridge between the forks was Rosebud.

After creditable recitation on these primary points, Billy directed his field-glass to the adjacent N8 country and studied it attentively.

A TOUCH OF NATURE. 77

bringing his field of vision nearer till at last he was examining the foot-hills immediately below and to their right.

"Hello! There's a man," he said. "I believe he's killed a deer. N<o — it's alive, whatever it is. No, not so far. There — don't you see?"

"Let me look," said Baker. He took the glass. "Umph, deer! Yes — slow deer!" he said aciduously. "What do you make of it, Wade?"

Headlight took a leisurely survey and passed the glass to Smith without comment.

After a long look, Aforesaid sat down with his legs hanging over the cliff, rolling a cigarette with great composure. "It's Jim," he said, fishing for a match. "As near as I can make out, he's workin' over one of Baker's steers, convertin' the 13 into N8, brandin' through a wet blanket to make the new part look old. You know the steer. Headlight — that pieded straight-edge we brought off of Rosebud, that got away from the day-herders at Fresnal?"

Headlight nodded. "I knowed the old moss-back quick as ever I laid eyes on him."

"You see," continued Aforesaid, addressing Billy, "Jim, he was out of work and ridin' the chuck line. So I told him to lay up with me till he rustled a job, makin' himself useful. This is his idea of makin' himself useful. I warned him agin such, but he's so blame grateful. Look here, Baker, you don't think I was knowin' to this, do you?"

"Not a minute! Re-brandin' known and named stuff like that isn't your style," said Baker pointedly. "You're more cautious. But your grateful Jim'll have to go. He's like too many of you Texas fellows — he ain't got no control of his loop. He thinks — "

He stopped. Out of a timber-clump fronting the Butte, dashed a bunch of cattle. Two wild riders thundered after, down the steep, rocky slope. The foremost, with whirling loop, closed in, scattering the bellowing tail-enders. A swift cast of the rope ; the horse sat back on his haunches with bracing feet ; a long-eared yearling pitched and bawled in wild circling at the rope's end. The second horseman clattered by, urging the flying cattle with terrifying yells, oblivious of the interested spectators, a stone's-throw above. (A stone may be thrown very far — straight down.)

"Magnificent!" said Beebe. "What superb horsemanship!"

"Watch him throw and tie," advised Pringle. His tones were tremulous, his face rapturously beatific. Baker wore a dignified, disinterested air of far-off abstraction, quite disconnected with mere mundane affairs. The other two were wholly absorbed in sudden contemplation of Beebe's field-glasses.

The yearling came to momentary pause ; the horse darted forward

7« OUT WEST

and the slack was deftly twitched so that the yearling "crossed" it. At the same moment the cow-pony planted himself; the rider was off, running swiftly, tugging at the "tie-string" around his waist as he ran. As the maverick executed a creditable somersault, the cowboy pounced on him, gathered the frenzy-beating feet together with a swoop of legs and arms, made a few quick passes, and rose. The captive was hog-tied ; the puncher threw off the choking neck- rope and began gathering sticks ; the maverick, madly threshing his head, bawled frantic terror and indignation.

Down the hill a furious cow reappeared at this piteous outcry, prompted by maternal affection. The other puncher had turned back, whistling, coiling his rope as he came. Him she charged in a fine frenzy, head down, tail up, vociferous. Vainly he strove to turn her with shout and on-sweep. Her blood was up and she held the right of way. Slipping aside, he fell in behind her, drew up close beside. The circling rope poised rhythmically, swooped down over her withers in exact time with her plunging feet, whirling as it came ; the uplifted hand drew the noose tight, the pony swerved. "Fore- footed," the luckless avenger turned in air, lit on her side with a thump, and scrambled to her feet, gasping, but undaunted. Bellow- ing defiance, she lowered her head for the onset, but the rope tight- ened with a jerk and she was down again. This time she took the count. Meanwhile, the other man was starting his fire in fine uncon- cern.

"What's that for ?" demanded Billy. "He'll hurt that cow. Why don't he tie her if he wants her, Mr. Baker?"

Baker came out of his rhapsody, tried vainly to catch the Ken- tuckian's eye ; turned an imploring glance to Pringle, marked the dancing deviltry of his smile, and bowed his head in humble resigna- tion. Aforesaid rolled his eyes with an air of gentle melancholy. The Kentuckian fairly strutted, his face illumined with conscious virtue. It was Pringle who finally gave the desired information.

"He don't want her, Billy. You see, that long-ear's her'n ; Head- light, he pays taxes on her, and them lynx-eyed toilers is in the ^w-ploy of Mr. Baker, addin' to his frugal gains. Obvious, the idee is to break them fam-ly ties. She'll drift, presently, and her calf'll be an orphan-in-law. There she goes, now. They mostly can't stand more'n a couple o' falls."

Billy eyed the stockmen with respectful admiration. "You people certainly take things easy," he ventured, obliquely.

"When a poor man hurls his twine misappropriate,' 'observed Headlight, casually, "some folks is shocked and grieved horrible. Bein' well fixed themselves, they hires punchers to work their stock, and if any informal transactions like this comes to light, they claim

A TOUCH OF NATURE. 79

it was a mistake, or blame it on the hands. Now, if you'd caught me in such a caper — "

More he would have said, but Pringle touched his shoulder and lightly motioned him to the left. Half a mile away, a mottled turmoil of swarming red-and-white broke from cover, hotly pursued by a Lilliputian horseman. Aforesaid made an eager snatch at the field- glass ; the drooping Baker rose, happily refreshed.

Racing to windward of the dust, the horseman leaped off. An instantaneous smoke-puff — the bobbing streaks of color were in the timber before the faint report reached Billy's ears. Behind, a red- and-white spot lay quiet in the open.

After painstaking scrutiny. Aforesaid twirled his mustache at a jaunty angle. Then, smiling sweetly, he held the glasses out to Headlight.

"Have a peek, old-timer?"

His eye was malicious. Headlight waved aside the proffered courtesy. Pringle's right hand shook his left in cordial glee. "The inhabitants of the Scilly Isles," he murmured, joyfully reminiscent, "who eke out a precarious livelihood by taking in each other's wash- mg.

"Well ?" said Baker, hopefully.

Aforesaid turned to Billy. "That was Charlie Gaylord, Headlight's nephew," he explained, with much deliberation. "The Louisville Gaylords, you know. One of the First Families of Kaintuck." He cut off a liberal chew of tobacco, stowed it in his cheek, and offered the plug to Headlight. "The beef was mine," he added, as an after- thought,

"Maybe he shot the wrong one," suggested Billy. "They were running very fast."

Hearing his kinsman thus maligned. Headlight made to his defense.

"Miss a beef at fifty yards !" he snorted. "I'd disown him !"

Billy reflected, chin in hand.

"What a charm there is in this free and simple life !" he mused. "How the hearty, whole-souled, hardworking cattle-man, breezy, open-and-above-board, puts to shame the indirection, fraud and heartless greed of the market-place. The contrast between the pure, sweet mountain air and the reek of the crowded cities is not greater than that between the frank, straightforward manners of honest toil with the feverish frenzy of brazen commercial avarice, that tramples on human rights and gr-r-rinds the faces of the poor."

The three reformers sat down, their backs to Billy and to each other, and absorbed themselves in their respective sections of scenery. Below, grateful Jim had released the light token of his regard, and jogged peacefully toward the spot where the Baker's Dozen men

8« OUT WEST

were putting the finishing touches on the maverick. On the left, the LouisvilHan bent, industrious, to his work.

Billy resumed.

"I have often observed that most reformers lack in practical grasp of affairs. In your case, however, zeal for righteousness seems to go hand-in-hand with foresight, thrift and enterprise."

No answer.

"It seems a pity, though, that gifts like yours should be denied the larger opportunity they deserve. Such abilities should have room to develop. Your talents would shine with added lustre in a larger field— say in Wall Street !"

They humped their shoulders up and took it meekly.

"Far be it from me to criticize," said Billy, mildly. "And yet, with all your undoubted business qualifications, you could benefit by adopting some of our modern methods. For instance, an appli- cation of the clearing-house idea to your industries would have sim- plified today's operations to a merely clerical matter, thus greatly reducing your expenses."

"Them fellows ain't never looked up once," muttered Baker, with concentrated bitterness. "They let us in for this — the damn careless scoundrels. Boys, le's throw a scare into 'em !"

Pop! Bang! Bangbang! Three forty-fives came into simulta- neous action. Bewildering echoes multiplied the crashing volleys to a continuous fusillade.

Scurry of swift color, popping of underbrush; the cowboys van- ished, remorseful. Crash of breaking boughs, dim-hurling shapes brief-glimpsed through the tree-tops ; beyond, a little valley. "They'll meet I They'll meet !" shouted Baker, dancing in truculent ecstacy. "Burn the breeze, ye sons of Zeruiah !"

They burst into the valley together. Desperately wheeling through billowing clouds of dust, red-pierced by spitting fire-flashes, they passed on, each, by tacit agreement, on a different tangent. The forest swallowed them in its green depths; unbroken silence and peace closed again on that fair and sunny wilderness. On Thumb Butte the battle-smoke hung motionless.

Pringle buried his face in his hands, rocking wildly. "Oh, if my poor mother could only see me now !" he groaned.

"Them misguided wretches'll pursue them several routes till they meet salt water," remarked Aforesaid, awe-struck.

"As a practical suggestion, in the interests of economy and equity," said Billy, "hadn't we better all go down and skin Mr. Owen's beef? Mr. Gaylord, I see, has gone away."

"What! And compound a felony?" Pringle began.

Headlight rose. "John Wesley," he said firmly, "one word from you — or if you ever seem to look as if you might possibly want to like to say something — and we put the leggin's onto you. Mr. Beebe, you're entitled to rub it in if you want to, 'count of us giving up all that head this forenoon. But, if you'd just as soon — as a matter of sparin' our feelin's — you just give us one good hard kick all 'round and call it square." He looked over his shoulder plead- ingly. "Can't you, now?"

Apalachin, N. Y.

8i

SANGER. CALIFORNIA

By W. M. BARR.

HEN M. J. Church, in 1868, brought a band of 2000 sheep from

Napa City in to the valley of Kings River, where they found

abundant feed that year, he little thought that he was laying

the foundation for one of the greatest irrigation enterprises

in America; and yet within two miles of where Mr. Church

first pitched camp, about five miles northeast of the thriving

towi^ of Sanger, Fresno County, Cal., is now the head of an irrigation system

covering over 400,000 acres of rich fertile valley land.

The productive river-bottom along Kings River furnished forage for thou- sands of cattle, in an early day during the whole of the year, while the broad valley extending from the Sierra Nevada on the east to the foot-hills of the Coast Range on the west was one vast grazing ground during the winter months, showing what the land would do if supplied with sufficient water. During the summer months this broad valley became a veritable desert, a section of country to be avoided, the idea prevailing that it would never be fit for habitation by white men.

It is not the object of this article to enter into a recital of the trials and tribulations of the first irrigationists, of the opi>osition from the stock-men> personal encounters, night raids, warnings to leave and the' like. These are matters of history, and all went to make up a part of the annals of Fresno County, now known the world over as the greatest producer of the grape, the peach and the orange of any section in this broad, productive land ot ours.

In 1886 an occasional orchard or vineyard broke the monotony of the im- mense grain fields lying along the eastern part of the San Joaquin Valley adjacent to Kings River. In the spring of that year the Southern Pacific Company, looking into the future and seeing in this tract of fertile country a source of great wealth and productiveness, determined to bring it within

Picking Oranges Near Sanger

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SANGER, CAL. 83

reach of their lines of transportation. Surveys were accordingly made, land secured and town-sites laid oyt. Fifteen miles east of the City of Fresno was laid out what was then termed Sanger Junction. Since that time the "Junction" has been dropped and the town is known as Sanger.

In the Spring of 1888 the first sale of t;pwn-lots was held by the Pacific Improvement Company, which owned the town-site. The town had a phe- nomenal growth from its start, and it was not long before Sanger was recog- nized as one of the important places in Fresno Couoty.

Something of the growth of the town may be judged from the fact that during 1890 more than 75 buildings were erected. During this year the Kings River Lumber Company completed a flume, said to be the longest of its kind in the world, for the shipment of lumber from the high Sierras to tlie railroad for shipment to all parts of the world. The completion of this great enterprise was marked by an immense celebration and barbecue, to which 2500 people came from all parts of the country. This plant is now owned by a wealthy company, lately from the East, known as the Hume^ Bennett Lumber Company. The annual output of lumber is about twenty million feet, all of which is floated down fifty miles of flume, loaded on the cars at Sanger and shipped to all parts of the world, even as far as Australia. Australia.

Many of our Eastern friends will be amazed at the statement that it is not uncommon for this company to fell and cut into lumber logs from ten to twenty feet in diameter and one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet in length, yet the writer has seen many just such logs as these made into lumber and floated down this flume to Sanger.

During the hard times from 1893 to 1898, Sanger, in sympathy with all other 'places, was at a standstill. There appeared to be no money in the country, farm products were hardly bringing the cost of production, and everybody was what is commonly terrtied "hard up." But a change came gradually creeping over the land — first a creep, then a walk, then a run, until now behold the difference ! '

At the present time Sanger has within her confines a grammar school as good as any in the State, employing eight teachers, occupying two buildings ; a fine high school, with all modern improvements, employing five teachers ; seven churches, two newspapers, two resident physicians (we don't have much use for a doctor here), no attorneys (for we are a peaceable people). The Masons, Odd Fellows, Woodmen of the World, Modern Woodmen, with their corresponding women's organizations, the Independent Order of For- esters, the Fraternal Brotherhood and the Eagles are all represented here. A good opera house furnishes ample room for amusements or public meet- ings. A bank with $25,000 capital and $7000 surplus and reserve, carefully and honestly managed, is fully equipped to meet ail demands made upon it consistent with gook banking. Two grain-warehouses furnish ample means for the storage and handling of our cereal crops, while six different pack- ing-houses and firms handle our varied fruit crops. These various fruit- packing houses give employment almost continuously to men, women and girls who wish to follow that line of work. Commencing in November with oranges and lemons, which extend to May, then follow in succession such green fruits as apricots, peaches, grapes and later the same varieties dried, running into the orange seascm again for the next year. All lines of mer^ chandise are well represented, all seem to be doing a good, profitable busi- ness, and it is doubtful if one could be induced to sell at what might be termed a fair price.

It is felt that there is a good opening here for a first-class, up-to-date de- partment or general-merchandise store. The Hume-Bennett Lumber Com- pany employs from seventy-five to one hundred and fifty men at various sea- sons of the year at their mills in Sanger, and from four hundred to five hundred hands at their immense saw mills in the mountains, fifty miles east of Sanger,

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SANGER, CAL. 85

With all these natural advantages, and all in their infancy, young and growing, we feel that it would be difhcult to find a safer, more profitable or more desirable place for the man with capital to invest, for the man of moderate means to gain a competence and educate his children, or the labor- ing man to sell his labor and gain a permanent foothold.

The question to the man looking for an investment, either of hundreds or thousands of dollars, naturally is, "what will it all cost and what can 1 get for my money? If I buy unimproved land, how long before it will bear fruit? and what or how much will it produce?" Now, in making these esti- mates and statements, the writer will try and give only such facts and figures as he knows are true and of practical value.

Unimproved land will cost at the present time from $50 to $ico per acre, depending on the quality and location — and let me here say that the lowest priced land is not always the cheapest. You must have a water-right located, or bore a well and pump water.

A water-right, which is perpetual and is only paid for once, will cost $5 per acre, and is bought from the Canal Company which controls all the water about Sanger, and is the cheapest known form of irrigation. An annual rental thereafter of 62^ cents per acre is paid, this charge being regulated by the Board pf Supervisors of the County. Your land must then be leveled or graded so that it can readily be irrigated. This may cost from $3 to $25 per acre, depending on the unevenness of the surface. About $10 would be an average price. About 100 trees or 500 vines are required per acre, the trees costing from $8 to $15 per hundred, and vines from $7 to $12 per thousand. Orange or lemon trees range from $50 to $75, occasionally reach- ing $100 per hundred. Vines will begin to bear the third year from setting, and trees the fourth year. Now, how much can you expect to get? Let me give you some figures, and upon request most of the names of the parties referred to can be given :

A young man bought twenty acres three miles south of Sanger in Jan- uary, set to pears, peaches and apricots, for $2500, partly on time ; in July of the same year he sold the crop on the trees, without the expense of har- vesting, for $2400.

A man three miles northeast of Sanger set a vineyard of wine grapes on a part of his land. When these vines were eighteen months old from setting the writer paid him at the rate of $46 per acre, delivered in Sanger. At two and one-half years old, he paid $93 per acre; at three and one-half years old, $112,

Another party reports $720 from 150 peach trees; another $1075 from two and one-half acres; another $895 from 120 trees; another $450 from forty trees ; still another $400 per acre from table grapes, sold on the vines. This present year one rancher (for an owner of a five-acre patch is a rancher here) has been offered $1500 for the fruit of 1400 trees, on the trees free of all cost for harvesting.

Can you get these prices all the time? No! Don't think of it. They have been received and might be again, but they are unusual and not safe to count on.

Let us take what might be termed a safe, fair estimate : There is good money in raisins at 3^2 cents per pound, a good yield being one ton per acre. At 7 cents to 8 cents per pound for dried fruit, a man can net $75 per acre in an ordinary year.

An industrious man will find ample opportunity to work any time not re- quired on his own place, for his neighbors, and while his trees and vines are coming into bearing summer crops such as Egyptian corn, potatoes, melons or beans can be grown between the rows of trees.

Our climate is dry, warm and healthy, and yet we live in sight of per- petual snow on the high Sierras to the east of us. Our nights are always cool — no high winds, thunder storms nor cyclones.

To the Easterner wishing to better his condition, provide future homes for his children and have all the advantages named, we say. Come to Sanger, investigate for yourself, for in so doing we believe you will become one of us.

Don't think this can all be gained without work, and honest, hard word, but we do say that nowhere on earth will honest effort intelligently put forth and directed yield larger and more satisfactory and ready returns than in the vicinity of Sanger, Fresno County, California.

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RED RIBBON BEER

CONFORMS to the PURE FOOD LAW

'T'HE Mathie Brewing Company offer $ 1 OOO for any one to prove that their beers in Purity and Quality are not the purest brewed. ^ Do you know that beer contains only about 3| p>er cent of alcohol ? Beer is liquid bread — is the German saying. Used moderately, beer is not an intoxicant and is the purest of popular drinks. The best temperance drink is beer. Physicians prescribe beer for the weak as it makes strength. Beer ranks with milk as a blood and strength producer and contains little alcohol. ^ Our beers are sold in quarts and pints. Why not try a case ?

Home Cx. 942

TCLCPMONCS:

Sunset East 66

Out West Magazine Company

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C. A. MOODY, Vice-President aud General Manager A. E. KEMP, Secretary

F. W. WORCESTER, Business Manager

PUBLISHERS OF

OUT WEST

Edited by

j CHAS. F. LUMMIS

\ CHARLES AM A DON MOODY

Entered at the Los Angeles Postofflce as Second-class Matter.

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Size of column 2^x8 inches — two columns to the page. Last advertising form closes on the 15th of month preceding date of issue. Advertisers are earnestly requested to instruct as early as the 5th whenever possible. ^

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All manuscript, and other matter requiring the attention of the editor, should be addressed to him. All letters about subscriptions, advertising or other business, should be addressed

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United States

Post Oxrice Money Orders ana Government Bonds

A.re bought largely for SA.FEXY. Building ana Loan A.ssociation stock is tougkt xox tke same reason — SAFETY — and also because it pays a kiglier rate or interest.

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Because the location of their property is immedi- ately adjoining and an extension of the famous Lucille Mine which has absolutely proven by its de- velopment work that they have a dividend paying mine and as a matter of fadt the best looking mine in Southern Nevada or California, also a body of ore over 40 feet in width. Q Because their surface showings are identical with those of our fortunate neighbor and the Harriett S. property has all the earmarks of making a large and successful mine like the adjoining property. ^ Because its stock is now low in price and within the reach of the smallest investor. ^ Because its psesent and future manage- ment is and will be men of efficiency, integrity and ability. ^ Because opportunity presents itself to every man but once and this is your opportunity. ^ Because you can purchase this stock now at 1 3 cents per sha'e and you certainly will make a hand- some profit at this price.

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HOME /8/ MAIN 8666

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Sunny- vale...

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One of the Many Factories

Climatic conditions, location and shipping facilities Insure great manufacturing center; a dozen concerns now operating with pay-rolls at $12,000 per week. Best for cherries, prunes, other fruits, berries, nuts and vegetables in the world-famed Santa Clara valley — five to ten-acre tracts sufficient; 50 Southern Pacific trains daily, 3 miles from San Francisco bay and deep water; south from San Francisco 38 miles. Write Sunnyvale Chamber of Commerce for Handsome Illustrated booklet, free. R. B. Cherington, Sec. or to

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honors at many International expositions, including Paris, Buffalo, St. Louis, Portland and the recent Jamestown Centennial Exposition. Every bottle sold with a positive guarantee of age and purity. None less than twenty years old, many are thirty. If you want wines of surpassing quality, try the Gold Medal brand. Order direct from the distributors. -:- . -:- -:- -:- -:-

WE PAV PREIGMTTO ANV R. R. POINT IN U. S. ON CASE LOTS

We make a specialty of Eastern shipments and will box free of charge and prepay freight to any point in the United States on all orders for two or more cases. -:- -:- -:- -:- -:-

Gold Medal Port

Per case, $ 1 6.00

Gold Meda Sherry Per case, $16.00

Gold Medal Muscatel

Per case. $ 1 6.00

Gold Medal Angelica

Per case. $16.00

63S SxnjUh TTUUfiiSyt.

t10MEEX-9l9 JUNJET MAIN 919

LOS ANGCLCS, CALIPORINIA

Bailey's Rubber Complexion Brushes ^ Massage Rollers

Make. Keep and Restore Beauty in Nature's own way

FLAT-ENDED TEETH

with circular biting edges that remove dust caps, cleanse the skin in the bath, open the pores, and give new life to the whole body. Bailey's Rubber Brushes are all made this way. Mailed for price. Beware of imitationi. At all dealers. Bailey's Rubber Complexion Brush . . $ .50 Bailey's Rubber Massage Roller . . . .50

Bailey's Bath and Shampoo Brush . . .75

Bailey's Rubber Bath and Flesh Brush . 1.50

Bailey's Rubber Toilet Brush (small) . .25

Bailey's Skin Food (large jar) .50

Dailey*s

Won't Slip TIP

This tip won't slip on ANY SURFACE, en smooth ice. or mar the most highly polished floor. Made in five sizes, internal diameter: No. 17, %in.;No. 18, »4 in.; No. 19. ^s in.; No. 20, lin.; No. 21. IV^ in. Mailed upon receipt of price, 30c. per pair. Agents wafted.

100 Page Hui' r ( , „yue Free.

C. J. BAILEY & CO.. 22 Boylatan St., BOSTON. Mass.

LEADING HOTELS THE COAST

of

HOTEL REDONDO, Redondo, Cal. 18 miles from Los Angeles, at Redondo-by- the-sea. "The Queen of the Pacific." Open all the year; even climate.

APARTMENTS, Los Angeles fully furnished, new, 3 rooms, gas, range, hot water, bath, telephone, $14.00 monthly. T. Wiesendangcr, Room 3 1 1 . 207 South Broadway, Los Angeles.

HOTEL PLEASANTON Los Angeles, California

New, modern, American plan family hotel. Hot and cold water, telephone, and steam heat in every room. Rates, $10.00 to $16.00 week. 1 120 So. Grand Ave. E. R. PARMELEE

p. 1 L 4 ^

\m

The

Jar for Whole

Fruit

The wide-mouth jar is the only jar to use. It permits the pre- serving of both large and small fruits ivhole. You need only the one kind of jar for all your pre- serving. The wide-mouth jar is easier cleaned — easier to remove contents from.

ATLAS

E. Z. Seal Jar

(Lightning trimmings)

is a wide-mouth jar. Made of strong, tough glass. Mouth of the jar is smooth. No danger of cutting the hands.

To be sure of these features, to be sure of the most perfect jar made, ask for the ATLAS jar. The

ATLAS Special Mason

is an extra wide-mouth jar with screw cap — like illustration. Remember the name Atlas when buying any kind of jar. Atlas means quality. "Mason" simply refers to one particular style of jar.

If your dealer cannot supply these jars, send us $3, and we will express prepaid thirty (30) quart size Atlas Spkcial Wide-Mouth Jars to any town having an office of the Adams or U. S. Express Co., within the States of Penn- sylvania, New Jersey, New York, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, or Michigan, or we will quote delivery prices iu other portions of the United States by freight or express.

A Book of Preserving: Recipes.-

Sent free to every woman wlio Rends us the name of her grocer, stating it be sells Atlas jars.

HAZEL-ATLAS GLASS CO., Wheeling, W. Va.

$2,000 for Short Stories

Sunset is in the field for short stories — the best short stories of western out-of-door life that can be written. The attention of all writers is called to this announcement, which means that between this date and July 31 cash prizes amounting- to $2,000 will be paid for fifteen stories of the character desired. This amount will be divided into the following prizes :

First prize, $500; second prize, $250; third prize, $200;

fourth and fifth prizes, $ 1 50 each; five stories at

$ 1 00 each; five stories at $50 each

The only limitations put upon writers are that the manuscripts shall run between three thousand and eight thousand words ; that they shall relate in some manner to the country west of the Mississippi river, or to any locality north of the equator in lands washed by the Pacific, although preference will be given those relating to the West- ern states. They must all relate to the out-of-doors and be buoyant, cheerful and hopeful.

All stories should reach this office not later than July 31, and prize winners will be announced in the October number. The author's name and address' should not be attached to the manuscript, but should be submitted in a separate sealed envelope which should simply bear the title of the story. The stories will be passed upon by three readers, all of them independent of the editorial stafif. All manuscripts not receiving prizes, or purchased independently, will be returned at the close of the competition, providing stamps for such return are enclosed. All should be typewritten, and should be plainly addressed :

SHORT STORY CONTEST

Sunset Magazine San Francisco, Cal.

ERMAR

CALIFORNIA -

INO

IN THE SAN BERNARDINO MOUNTAINS

'T'HIS City is situated in a valley of great fertility, while the scenic beauties are unex- celled. Three transcontinental railroads enter the city and trolley lines lead to the mountains amd to adjacent townns and communities. Here axe located the great Samta Fe railroad shops, employing more than one thousand men, with a pay-roll amounting to $ 1 00,000 per month. The business men of the city very largely furnish the vast supplies for the min- ing districts in other parts of the county. ^ Arrowhead Hotel, Arrowhead Hot Springs, California, is easily reached by any train to San Bernardino, thence by trolley car direct to Arrowhead Hotel. ^ First class schools, public library and churches of nearly all denom- nationf. ^ For Booklet and Further Information, Address

SECRETARY BOARD OF TRADE, SAN BERNARDINO, CAL.

or any of the following leading business firms:

Arrowhead Hotel David R. Glass, Business College Insurance, Loan and Land Company W. L. Vestal, Iniurance and Real Elstate Miller- McKenney-Lightfoot Company, Real Els- tate Brokers

Stewart Hotel California State Bank

iones Bros., Kodak Supplies )raper & Dubbell, Real Elstate, Insurance and

Loans San Bernardino Realty Board

Maier Brewing Company's

**Select" Beer

XJOTED

-••^ Purity

for its Age, and Strength. AU shipments by bottles or kegs promptly filled. Family trade a specialty. :: :: ::

; OFFICE AND BREWERY

440 Aliso Street, Los Angeles

BOTH PHONES: Exchange 91

San Diego

Calif

ornia

AMERICA'S FIRST PORT OF CALL ON THE PACIFIC

San Diego Has

The best climate in the world The best water supply in the west The best harbor on the Pacific Ocean The ideal site for a home

The Culgoa, one of the Evans Fleet loading supplies in San Diego Harbor.

For information address JOHN S. MILLS, Sec. Chamber of Commerce, or any of the following:

First National Bank

J. O. Lendahl, Real Estate

Fred'k E}nni«it <& Co., Real E^state

O'Neall & Moody, Real Estate

South San Diego Inv. Co.

Southern Trust and Savings Bank

H. Lynnell, Furniture

Pacilic Furn. & Show Case Mfg. Co.

Star Theatre

Homeland Improvement Co.

Cottage Realty Co.

Gunn & Jasper, Real Estate

Ralston Realty Co.

M. Hall, Real Estate

J. W. Master, Patent Broker

Halsey-Firman Inv. Co.

Star Builders' "Supply Co.

Aetna Securities Co.

J. A. Jackson, Real Estate

Sanger

CALIFORNIA Fresno County

%»y^J

Ihe Lumber City The Fruit City

T'

actual record we have 255 clear sunshiny days in the year, of the following :

HE Home of the Orange, Grape and Peach. Cli- matically— the very best. By Before locating visit this section or write to any

Campbell <& Root, Real Estate Sanger State Bank

Kings River Stage & Transportation Co. D. H. LatEerty, Grand Hotel & Res- taurant Commercial Hotel, P. L. White, Prop. T. C. Mix, Hotel de France A. B. Carlisle, Sierra Hotel Hume-Bennett Lumber Co.

J. M. Morrow, Real Estate

W. D. Mitchell, Sanger Market

D. H. Babbe, Real Estate and Li

Stock of all kinds. T. O. Finstermaker, Sanger Bakery P. J. Pierce, Hay and Grain F. H. Merchant, General Merchandise M. W. Bacon, Sanger Transfer J. N. Lisle, Furniture and Stoves

ANYVO THEATRICAL COLD CREAM

prevents early -wrinkles. It is not a freckle coating- ; it r©> moves them. ANYVO CO.. 427 North Main St., Los Anffelea

UPLAND

I

Busines.- .iiy, which lies in center of the great

San Bernardino and Pomona Valley, 4 0 miles east of Los Angeles, traversed by Santa Fe, Salt Lake and S. P. Railroads. Upland is the north two-thirds of the Colony, greatly prosperous from its splendid orange and lemon groves. At its many packing houses many people are employed on pay-rolls that aggregate many thousand dollars annually contributing to the great prosperity of its banks and business houses of every kind, and contributing to the rapid growth of the town. With Cucamonga and the greater part of Ontario Colony tributary to its business and roc.IaI llfp TTolan/l is mopt Invitlne for the business man or homo roakeker.

Por Information and BooKlet Address .A.ny of tHe folio-win^

WIIIIainM BruN., Planing; Mill and Con-

trartorw Geo. J. Chlldn Co., Real Kntate C'oinnierfial Hank of Upland Ontario-C'iioniiioni^n Fruit Kxchangre Steivnrt CItriiH AMM<»fiiition Colborn llroH.' I'plnnd Store n. C. Ivennedy, Upland Cyclery

J. T. Brov^-n, Star Barber At^vood-Blakenlee L>iinil>er Co. N. G. Paiil, Real Entate Gordon C. Day, BlavksmithinK Straeiian Fruit Co. JohnMon & Brown, Groceries Upland News

The Reedley Country

On the famous Kings River is in all points one of the most fertile in the San Joaquin Valley. Soil, water and sunsh'ne combine to make it all that the most visionary booster can have imagined. The principal products are raisins, peaches, oranges, apricots, plums, berries, grain, and dairy products.

The water system is the cheapest in the state out^'de of riparian rights. The annual cost of water under the district system, under which we operate, does not exceed 50 cents per acre.

Ten acres in fruit is sufflcient to maintain all the expense in keeping an ordi- nary family. Twenty acres in fruit is sufficient to maintain an ordinary family and hire all the work done, and spend a long vacation in the adjacent mountains, or on the seashore. Forty acres is sufflcient to maintain the same family and to allow an annual deposit in the banks of $2500 to $3000, besides taking the outing. Good Schools, Churches, Roads, Telephones, rural deliveries, etc., etc.

...REEDLEY...

is the coming town in the San Joaquin Valley. It will be next to Fresno In size and commercial importance in a few years. It has three railroads, with ten pas- senger trains daily. It has two banks with their own buildings, and all lines of merchandise stores. The country and the town will bear thorough Investigation. Come and see for yourself, or address

SECRETARY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, or any of the following: Reedley, Calif.

L.yon Land Co. ShAffer Bros.

StlnMon-Webti Co.. Real Estate Jesse Jansen, Jansen Water Works

Reedley I>and Company I. J. Peek, Lomber Dealer

This is all we ask. Look all over the State of California, or the entire continent, for that matter, then come to CAMPBELL, Santa Clara Co., Cal., and we know what your verdict will be — you will become one of us. We know we have just what you want, and we want you to know it, too. This is not a section of country waiting for a future, but is an established community with present day records of productiveness to guarantee future results. Nothing problematical about that, is there? Besides, there is no better all-the-year climate in the world than we have right here. Winters and summers alike leave nothing to be desired, and you do not have to go elsewhere in summer to keep cool or in winter to keep warm. You can stay at home all the year and be as comfortable as at any place on earth. But you cannot live on climate, so Campbell will furnish you with an opportunity to make a living. You can get a fruit ranch of any size desired, all ready for you to step in and become one of our prosperous orchardists. Cheaper lands furnish grand opportunities for poultry raising, with a ready market for all your product. Fruit packing and drying houses need your work during the long fruit season — men and women, boys and girls, are then in great demand. The best of educa- tional advantages in a good, clean, "dry" town will appeal to all, whether they are seeking a town home, a business place, a fruit ranch or a poultry farm. Write for additional information to the CAMPBELL IMPROVEMENT CLUB, or

B. O. Curry, Real Estate

J. C. Alnsley, Fruit Canner

John F. Duncan

S. G. Rodeck

P. C. Hartnian, Dentist

Mary F. Campbell

Mrs. C, W. Sutter, Hotel

Farmers' Union

C. H. Whitman

John Li. Hagelin

K. B. Kennedy, Real Estate

C. N. Cooper

C. Berry

E. W. Preston, Cyclery

Campbell Fruit Growers' Union

MONTEREY

CALIFORNIA

■<*

VIEW FROM MONTEREY HEIGHTS SANITARIUM

-f^ONTEREY Heights Sanitarium is situated in the best part of Monte- rey. Sheltered by the pines from the full force of the ocean breezes and yet having a magnificent view of the beautiful bay which, while large enough to shelter the combined navies of the Atlanhc and Pacific, is almost completely land locked. Monterey has the finest winter and summer climate in the United States.

AN IDEAL HEALTH RESORT

Lilllie Sanatorium

Merchants Association

Monterey County Gas & Electric Co.

A. M. Agrgeler, Grocer

David Jacks Corporation

Wrigrht & Gould, Real Estate

F. M. Hllby, Drugsist

Littlcfleld & Masengill, Eureka Stables

Francis Doud

Ella Thomas, Real Estate

Monterey Aews Co.

Help— All Kinds. See Hummel Bros. & Co., 116-118 E. Second St Tel. Main 509.

HEMET, CALIFORNIA

An Ideal Place for a Home

...SOIL...

RICH DEEP

SANDY LOAM

"Water Supply

One of the best in the entire south- west.

High and Grammar Schools. :: :: ::

: WRin

ffRGUSON INVESTMENT CO. or WILLIAM KINGIIAM

Hcraet, RiTcriide Co., Cal.

HEMET POTATOES

PRODUCTS: Potatoes. Alfalfa, Peanuts, Walnuts, Almonds, Berries; Citrus and Deciduous Fruits of All Kinds.

LODI

Go Where You WUl

jl^.£

and you cannot find any better land

Vm^w

than the rich alluvial sediment so around Lodi. It is the most pro- ductive grape growing center in

^^^A^'

America. Nearly one-half of the table grapes from California were

wB^^^M

shipped from Lodi. This section cannot be excelled in this or any

^^1m '^^K'-^Ki

State for substantial profits. The

V^Bm

vineyards yield from four to six tons to the acre and the Flame Tokay

r^ '

grapes bring from $40 to $80 per ton. Peaches, Apricots, Plums, Olives, Almonds, Berries, etc., also

yield satisfactory profits.

BErORE DECIDING

where to locate, send for our new

A siigle band) of Tokay Grapes metsurias 18 iaclMS

booklet "Lodi." Address Lodi

CALIFORNIA

Board of Trade, Lodi, California.

ANYVO THEATRICAL COLD CREAM

prevents early wrinkles. It is not a freckle coatinr ; it re- moTes them. ANTVO CO., 427 North Main St., Los Anrelea

"SISKIYOU

the GOLDEN"

Ideal Climate Unrivaled Scenery Great Cattle Country

Immense Pine Forests Rich in Minerals Lands Low in Price

Splendid Farming Country Wonderful Fruit Country Excellent Schools

Healthiest Section of the West

For additional information booklets, maps, etc., address T. J. NOLTON, Sec- retary of the Siskiyou County Chamber of Commerce, Yreka, Cal., or any of the following :

Yreka Railroad Co.

Scofleld & Herman Co., Furniture

P. Li. Coburn, Attorney at Liair

Bird & Grant, Cash Grocers

Avery's Drug Store

li. H. Lee, Fruit and Vegetables

Frank W. Hooper, Attorney-Real Elstate Aug. Simmert, Meat Market Siskiyou Abstract Co. Hamion & Harmon, Livery Stable Jas. R. Tapscott, Attorney at Law

LOS GATOS

The Most Beautifully Situated Residence Town in

Central California

Located iu the foothills of the Santa Cruz mountains, fifty miles south of San Francisco and ten miles from San Jose

Stanford University and State Normal adjacent. Los Gatos has first class facilities.

Numerous Churches- No Saloons. Delightful Climate all the Year. Electric and Steam Railroad communication. This locality is the home of all deciduous fruits. For information address Jecretary Board of Trade, or any of the following :

Crosby &. Leask, Dry Goods

J. H. Pearce, General Merchandise

A. C. Covert, Real Estate

W. L. Pearce Co., General Merchandise

B. H. Noble & Co., Real Estate & Ins. Johns &, McMnrtry, Real Estate

J. A. McCoy, Real Estate & Ins. P. P. Watklns, Druggist Bank of Los Gatos

George A. Green, Drugs and Photo Sup.

J. D. Crummey

H. J. Crall, Books, Stationery, Etc.

J. J. Fretwell, Watchmaker & Jeweler

L. B. Mallory, Broker

E. L. Chase, Music

O. Lewis & Son, Hardware, Tinning and

Plumbing Hunt's Steam Bakery

SARATOGA

SANTA CLARA COUNTY, CAL.

THE SPRINGS AT SARATOGA

In the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains. The place for a home. Ideal climate and location. Quick transpor- tation to San Francisco and San Jose. Send for booklet.

Saratofa